Confederate Memorials – Arlington National Cemetery

Confederate Memorial [1914] 

Arlington National Cemetery (3 April 2011) 

Even our most sacred national burial ground has a Confederate memorial. Arlington National Cemetery, the last resting place for two presidents, four Chief Justices and scores of generals, Medal of Honor winners and other heroes, has its own monument to the traitors.

The heroic sculpture was created by Moses Jacob Ezekiel, the first Jewish graduate of the Virginia Military Academy. Thirty-two life-size figures encircle a pedestal topped by your classic female representation of the South, all peaceful-like, holding laurel wreath, plowshares and pruning hook symbols.

Confederate Memorial [1914] 

Arlington National Cemetery (13 April 2018) 

The turn of the 20th century was a time of reconciliation as the nation was recovering from the Spanish-American War and facing the prospects of the first World War. So maybe that’s why Arlington agreed to make a special place for the rebels. Besides, in those days, the powers that be were all on the same page regarding race. In 1912, we elected an avowed racist for president who went on to fire many Black federal office-holders and White House staff. The Lost Cause was noble again given we didn’t bury Negroes in Arlington. It wasn’t until 1948, after President Truman integrated the military, that the cemetery finally interred Black veterans.

Confederate Memorial [1914] 

Arlington National Cemetery (3 April 2011) 

Once again, the clamor to remove Confederate monuments AND change the names of military bases named after Confederate generals has taken center stage. It seems the defenders of the old order do not want to see their heroes as traitors.

But, what if…

Imagine President Bone Spurs is faced with a revolt. The west coast and northeast states decide they’ve had enough of the leadership of the Exceptional Christian White Man’s Party and decide to secede and form their own independent countries of East and West Freelandia.

Confederate Memorial [1914] 

Arlington National Cemetery (3 April 2011) 

I can see the president channeling his inner Lincoln when he realizes so much of the nation’s wealth and knowledge are concentrated in those misguided blue states. Rather than say ‘good riddance,’ he marshals the military to beat back the rebellion and preserve the union.

Detail, Confederate Memorial 

Arlington National Cemetery (3 April 2011) 

So, here’s the next question. Would Trump welcome back the traitors and name military bases after them? Would they erect monuments to them and revere the heritage of the disgraced subversives? Or would the victorious ‘law-and-order’ leaders hang them in the town squares and punish the traitors in no uncertain terms? I suspect that since they already call people who peacefully protest police murder ‘terrorists’ and want to shoot looters, etc., they will not be as generous.

Just sayin’.

River Cruise Diary – Bernkastel, Germany

Another overcast day but we ARE sailing during the day so, I’m enjoying watching some new territory scroll by. I’m afraid I may not have been consistent with the name of the river…Moselle (French)…Mosel (German). The river is smaller than the Rhine. The valley is V-shaped vs. the broader U-shape of the mainstem river. For this passenger, that means we’re closer to the shoreline sights.

We arrived at the next stop two hours early. Bernkastel (‘Bear Castle’) is another of those charming medieval towns surrounded by vineyards that come down the hillside right up the last building in the village. Two days later, we returned to Bernkastel after our furthest upstream stop in Trier. The shots and stories here will include both visits.

Market Square, Bernkastel, Germany (15 November 2019) 

The medieval town center has retained its 17th century 

half-timbered buildings and appearance. St. Michael’s 

Fountain on the right was installed in 1606. 

Spitzhäuschen, Bernkastel, Germany (13 November 2019) 

Just off the old market square is Spitzhäuschen 

(“pointed house”), an extremely narrow building wedged 

into the cobblestone lanes as it has been since 1416. 

Landshut Castle on the Hill Above 

Bernkastel, Germany (13 November 2019) 

We decided to take a hike after breakfast and climb to this ancient tower that is now a beer garden…which the saner locals can drive to…most exercise I’ve had since we left the states. Great view of the river, town and our boat.

The View from Landshut Castle, 

Bernkastel, Germany (13 November 2019) 

The ruins date back to 1276 but the castle was 

built on the site of a 4th century Roman fortification. 

On the morning we left Trier, two thirds of the passengers opted for the optional side trip to Luxembourg. They will see one of the four European Union capitals, the site of the Battle of the Bulge and one of the classic American Cemeteries for our WW II GI’s. I stayed to enjoy the views as we sailed 39 miles back to Bernkastel.

Mosel Vineyards in Autumn (15 November 2019) 

There weren’t many bright sunny days on this trip. As long as it’s not raining, I don’t mind. It rained briefly yesterday but the shower began and ended while we were eating lunch…lucky.

Overcast days make the colors richer and images lack the sharp contrasts that result from bright sun and deep shadows.

‘Cusanusstift’, Kues, Germany (15 November 2019) 

Back in Bernkastel, after lunch, we had a free afternoon to wander the quaint, old, narrow streets of the towns. The sister town on the shore opposite Bernkastel is Kues. The Cusanusstift hospital was founded in 1447 by Kues’ most prominent ancestor, Cardinal Nicholas Cusanus, one of the first German Renaissance humanists. The original hospital/chapel facility continues the Cardinal’s tradition of housing 33 senior citizens in need…33 being Christ’s age at death. It is also a library and wine museum. The fall colors add to the scene.

Autumn on the Mosel (15 November 2019)

At this point in the trip, I felt fully engaged and relaxed. The schedule, weather, activity choices, eating discipline and wardrobe decisions were all working nicely. We were in full vacation mode and mood.

Next stop (after the first day here) will be upstream at the Roman capitol of Trier, the furthest we will sail up the Mosel.

Confederate Memorials – Virginia Capitol

I believe no one but the most racist ignoramus will continue to maintain that the Civil War wasn’t about slavery and the enslaved were content with their lot as chattel. We can delve into that issue further along with these images.

Old Hall of the House of Delegates 

Virginia Capitol, Richmond (5 April 2019)

What other examples of Southern Heritage can we recall? You can use this one when a heritage defender inevitably throws out the old saw about “The North is just as racist. Look at the desegregation riots in Boston. Many Northern cities are segregated, too.”

OK. Yes, the North also has bigots who don’t like people who are different. But they didn’t celebrate those difference the same way the South did. To show who was in charge and to terrorize any thought of freedom out of their minds, the South would occasionally hold a nice public lynching and barbeque. Watch your community leaders participate. Bring the kids.

“Someone said he looked at a white woman the wrong way. That’s good enough for me.”

Bring your camera and if you don’t have one, there will be professional photographers there to sell you postcards. If you’re really lucky, you might nab yourself a prized souvenir like a finger or an ear from the guest of honor. Best get it right away…before they set him on fire. The descriptions of the sheer cruelty and barbarity of these events…in 20th century ‘Exceptional’ America…will make your skin crawl.

“Terror lynchings were horrific acts of violence whose perpetrators were never held accountable. Indeed, some public spectacle lynchings were attended by the entire white community and conducted as celebratory acts of racial control and domination.

“…many victims of terror lynchings were murdered without being accused of any crime; they were killed for minor social transgressions or for demanding basic rights and fair treatment.”

From – LYNCHING IN AMERICA: CONFRONTING THE LEGACY OF RACIAL TERROR - THIRD EDITION; Report by the Equal Justice Initiative. 2017.
https://lynchinginamerica.eji.org/report/

So, you got me there…Northerner’s have shown they are bigoted and object to Blacks moving into the neighborhood. But there were thousands of lynchings…and most happened in the former Confederate states.
--------------------------------
The old House of Delegates Hall in the Virginia capitol is no longer used by the state legislature. It served the state until new chambers were completed in 1904 and it did double duty as the seat of the Confederate legislature from 1861-1865. Since the Delegates moved to their new quarters, the room has been a museum with sculptures of noted Virginia figures…a number of whom took up arms against the nation.

Recently, the Speaker of Virginia House of Delegates ordered the removal of seven of the representations since they are an affront to our history. Of course, the Republican minority has objected to this attempt to re-write history. This candy-coated ‘heritage’ is nonsense. The ‘Lost Cause’ apologists can’t bring themselves to admit that antebellum society was a monstrous creation that could not have achieved a fraction of its success without slave labor.

Here are a few sculptures that are no longer available for public viewing.

Robert E. Lee [1931] 

Old Hall of the House of Delegates 

Virginia Capitol, Richmond (5 April 2019) 

(Removed 24 July 2020) 

Placed on the spot where the general took command of the 

Army of Northern Virginia, the 900-lb. bronze is the centerpiece 

of the hall. It was ordered by Harry Byrd, the arch-segregationist 

Governor who would go on to greater infamy as a U.S. Senator and 

leading opponent of school integration. He ordered the statue of 

Lee for the Old Hall as the state went on to fire up its ‘Lost Cause’ 

myth revisionism through the mid-20th century. 

J.E.B. Stuart [1871] 

Old Hall of the House of Delegates 

Virginia Capitol, Richmond (30 June 2008) 

(Removed 24 July 2020) 

Alexander Stevens [1953] 

Gift from the State of Georgia 

Old Hall of the House of Delegates 

Virginia Capitol, Richmond (30 June 2008) 

(Removed 24 July 2020) 

By the middle of the 20th century, those horrible, liberal 

Commie pinko agitators were riling up the masses to mix 

the races and change our White supremacy ways. 

Two of the more hard-core Confederate states to the South sent 

gifts to Richmond to ‘keep the faith.’ After the statue 

of General Lee, they were the largest sculptures in the room. 

Jefferson Davis [1952] 

Gift from the State of Mississippi 

Old Hall of the House of Delegates 

Virginia Capitol, Richmond (30 June 2008) 

(Removed 24 July 2020) 

There is a state senator from Virginia who has announced her desire to run for governor. When she complains about removing Confederate statues, she says, it “erases the history of white people.” Really.

Trust me. I don’t want to erase this history. This history should be told forthrightly…boldly…and accurately…without the whitewashing and sugar-coating.

I can’t help but think that when the GOP regains the majority in the legislature, some ‘heritage’ traitor-lover will propose they be returned to their rightful place.

Absent that, maybe the GOP and their Klan friends could crank up a ‘Go Fund Me’ project and build their own museum to house the art work…casual dress code…white hoods and robes optional.

Confederate Memorials - Monument Avenue, Richmond

One of the Mecca’s for any Rebel-lover is the Capital of the Confederate States. In Richmond, Virginia, there is a majestic old boulevard that has been a showcase of all the gods of the Lost Cause.

For over a century until very recently, Monument Avenue has displayed grand sculptural representations of the breakaway republic’s president, three of its most revered generals and a naval officer who made his name in science. I guess it was significant that a statue of Richmond-born African-American tennis champion and humanitarian, Arthur Ashe was added in 1996, but the cynic in me thinks it more of a ‘Bygones’ gesture. Monument Avenue will always be an advertisement for the Confederacy.

I had been to Richmond before to visit the three presidents buried in the glorious Hollywood Cemetery but had not seen the avenue before 2019. We drove there for a cultural weekend with Jack and Jo, who were kind enough to indulge this grave-hunter by including a visit to John Marshall for my upcoming ‘Dead Chief Justices’ Series.

Below are some images of the glorious past, valiant sacrifice, gallantry, manhood, honor, blah, blah, blah. As of this writing, most of them have been removed.

Jefferson Davis Memorial [1907] 

Richmond, VA (6 April 2019) 

(Removed 10 June 2020) 

Captured as the Civil War ended in 1865, the only president of the Confederate States of America, Jefferson Davis, was accused of treason but never tried. He was released after two years in prison and died in New Orleans in 1889 at the age of 81. He is buried in Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond.

Matthew Fontaine Maury Monument [1929] 

Richmond, Virginia (6 April 2019) 

(Removed 2 July 2020) 

Although Matthew Maury was a career naval officer, his time at sea ended early for medical reasons and he became a noted oceanographer, meteorologist and cartographer. He left the U.S. Navy when Virginia seceded and served the Confederacy in diplomatic and scientific capacities. He died in 1873 at the age of 67 and is buried in Hollywood Cemetery.

J.E.B. Stuart Monument [1907] 

Richmond, Virginia (6 April 2019) 

(Removed 7 July 2020) 

Noted calvary commander and flashy dresser James Ewell Brown Stuart fought Native Americans, participated in the ‘Bleeding Kansas’ mess and the capture of John Brown in Harpers Ferry before resigning his commission to command the calvary of Robert E. Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia. He died in the Battle of Yellow Tavern in 1864 at the age of 31 and is buried in Hollywood Cemetery.

Bright sun high in the sky and dark bronze statues do not make for the best images. The shadows are deep and details are lost. However, it was a good thing I got there before the dramatic changes of late. Like the old ballparks I boast you young collectors can no longer visit, most of the statues are no longer there.

Arthur Ashe Memorial [1996] 

Richmond, Virginia (6 April 2019) 

Richmond native Arthur Ashe was the first African-American tennis player to win the U.S. Open and Wimbledon Singles titles. After his playing career, he was active in many civil rights and humanitarian causes. He died in 1993 of AIDS-related pneumonia (likely caused by a contaminated blood transfusion) at the age of 49.

Stonewall Jackson Monument [1919] 

Richmond, Virginia (6 April 2019) 

(Removed 1 July 2020) 

Second only to Robert E. Lee, Thomas Jonathan “Stonewall” Jackson was the most renown Confederate general. After many successes on the battlefield, he was mistakenly killed by North Carolina forces after the Battle of Chancellorsville in 1863. He is buried in a cemetery named for him near the Virginia Military Academy. He was 39 years old.

Robert E. Lee Monument [1890] 

Richmond, Virginia (6 April 2019) 

Now spray-painted all over but still standing since 
a judge placed an injunction on its removal 

I guess General Lee became the embodiment of the Lost Cause because he was a brilliant general, surrendered graciously and supported reconciliation with the Union until he died in 1870 at the age of 63. From postage stamps to statues, he probably was represented more often into the 20th century than any other rebel figure.

On Confederate Monuments

I have to take a break from the river cruise diary to address one of the issues that arose with the Black Lives Matter protests. Along with the entrenched, systemic racism that continues to exist in the Good Ole U.S. of A. is the continued reverence for the Confederacy and its symbols. 

What with my travels chasing Dead Presidents and state capitols, I have seen a mess of memorials to the losing side in our country’s Civil War. And like so many other unthinking, privileged white people who were taught the white version of history in school, I accepted the equivalency of the Southern cause and didn’t think about all that was wrong with it.

Confederate Memorial Monument [1898], 

Alabama Stata Capitol Grounds, Montgomery (18 October 2008) 

Of all our many wars, the Civil War was special. A nation ripped asunder. American vs. American. Brother vs. Brother. Every casualty on both sides was one of ours. There was no bad guy in this conflict that killed 620,000 Americans. Unlike with the Nazis and the Japs, we couldn’t lay blame. There was no real enemy.

Bullshit.

Who decided to leave the Union? Who took up arms against the United States and fired the first shots on Fort Sumpter? If it was the ‘War of Northern Aggression,’ who’s army invaded Pennsylvania?

Even Ken Burns’ wonderful Civil War documentary didn’t do it because it was objective and not as judgmental as these times now require. I’m sorry it took this long for me to come around. This post will lead to others as I try to address what I’ve learned, but one thing is certain…I have images to go with the thoughts.

Arkansas Confederate Soldiers Monument [1905] 

State Capitol Grounds, Little Rock (16 June 2008) 

Dedicated on Jefferson Davis’ birthday, the ceremony drew thousands. 

Originally located near the main entrance to the capitol, 

it was moved later to a less ‘in-your-face’ part of the grounds. 

The past is not dead. 

In fact, it’s not even past.
– William Faulkner

To those who want to say this is all about preserving “Southern Heritage,” let’s go along with that for a bit.

There’s been such an effort to discount that big ‘Original Sin’ elephant-in-the-room.
“Yes, there was the slavery thing but we didn’t invent it. Everyone did it back then.”

It should be harder for the Confederate apologists to stick to their heritage nonsense.
“The conflict wasn’t about slavery…it was about states’ rights.”

Exactly. It was about the state’s right to keep other humans in bondage so the economic system could continue to thrive. And it was about spreading slavery to the new territories before they became states.

Weeks before the shooting war started and months after the first southern states seceded, Alexander Stevens, who would become Jefferson Davis’ vice president, gave his famous ‘Cornerstone’ Speech. In referring to the new government, Stevens said, “Its foundations are laid, its cornerstone rests, upon the great truth that the negro is not equal to the white man; that slavery, subordination to the superior race, is his natural and normal condition. This, our new government, is the first, in the history of the world, based upon this great physical, philosophical, and moral truth.”

Right. But the war was not about slavery.

South Carolina Monument to the Confederate Dead [1879] 

State Capitol Grounds, Columbia (26 June 2008) 

This one is more about honoring the fallen rather than promoting 

white supremacy but it was erected right after they got rid of 

those pesky Yankee carpetbaggers and restored a proper white 

supremacist government. God showed his approval by destroying 

the original with a lightning bolt in 1882. 

Here’s another one you’ll hear -
“A vast majority of the Confederate soldiers didn’t own slaves.”

True but so what? Soldiers below a certain rank don’t own slaves. The officers did and the rest of the fat cats don’t fight in their own wars. That’s a long-standing tradition.

‘The Talbot Boys’ Statue [1916], 

Talbot County Courthouse, Easton, MD (26 April 2015) 

Like so many Confederate memorials, this one was dedicated over 

a half-century after the Civil War ended. It is the only monument 

to the  traitors that still stands on Maryland state property. Maryland 

did not secede from the Union but was a slave-holding state. 

P.S. - Ninety-five years later, Talbot County dedicated 

another statue to its most famous citizen, Frederick Douglass. 

Ninety-five years later…in 2011. Better late than never. 

“C’mon now. We’re in a post-racial age. We elected a Black president after all (who we opposed at every turn).”

You bet. That’s when all those future Trump voters carried signs and posted images depicting the Obama family as chimpanzees.

Want more evidence of how racist this country still is?

Just think about all the mind-blowing things president Trump has done over these four years. Now just imagine if those very same actions, behaviors and decisions were made by Barack Hussein Obama. Would he have been impeached? Damn…how many times? They’d have burned the White House down by now.

Confederate Monument, Loudon County Courthouse [1908], 

Leesburg, VA (14 December 2018) 

(Removed 21 July 2020) 

As is happening across the states where these insulting monuments 

stand, the county legislators debated what to do with them. Rather 

than see them torn from their mounts and desecrated by crazed antifa 

anarchists and America-hating liberals, the United Daughters of the 

Confederacy asked that the Leesburg statue be returned to them. 

You know that old saying about history being written by the winners? So, why was the story of the Civil War written by the losers? What has come to frost many people, especially the descendants of all those faithful and happy slaves, is that the ‘heritage’ those in power fought to preserve and continue to maintain for another hundred-plus years after LOSING their armed rebellion was a social order based on their own racial superiority.

This is the first in a series of personal reflections on the Confederacy, its monuments and the sad state of our race relations. We’ll return to river cruising and more pleasant topics later.