Iceland – Day 4

Getaway Day. We packed up the luggage and stored it until the airport shuttle began the long trip home. We had our last complimentary breakfast. I do like the way European hotels include a decent morning meal. Then, we hit the streets for one last walkabout…looking for images and places to spend the last of our Icelandic krónur. By the way, the coins are pretty neat as they all have sea creatures on them.

Sun Voyager, Reykjavik (14 March 2016)

On the waterfront, you will find this striking, stainless steel sculpture. Although it resembles a Viking longboat, the Sun Voyager is about discovery and chasing the sun toward progress and freedom. After our four days there, I could understand the ‘chasing the sun’ part.

Reykjavik Marina from Inside the Harpa Center (14 March 2016)

The Harpa Center is the city’s primary convention and concert venue. The modern building sits on the waterfront. From inside, one can see the harbor through these irregular cells of glass.

Mural House, Reykjavik (14 March 2016)

While a few high-rise buildings are going up along the waterfront, many of the structures in downtown Reykjavik remain modest in size. A few of them have been turned into artists’ canvases.

There was one last visual treat for me that occurred well into the flight home. With Iceland as far north as it is, a direct flight back to the east coast of the U.S. took us over Greenland. Of course, I had never seen this most remote part of the world and felt fortunate to have looked up from my book…at the right time…on a clear day…sitting by a clean window.

Coastal Greenland from 35,000 Feet (14 March 2016)

While we didn’t see the northern lights and the weather for this visit mostly sucked, Iceland is still a fascinating place to spend some time. The people are friendly and English is essentially tied with Icelandic as the first language here. Given we can get there non-stop from Baltimore, I suspect there will be a return visit one day…but next time, we’ll try summer.

Iceland – Day 3

Now that we’re fully acclimated to the 5-hour time zone change, we start out early for the 11-hour South Coast bus tour. After crossing the snow-covered highlands, the rest of the day was spent along the sea coast. Mountains with glaciers on one side and the ocean on the other with the rural folk making their living growing grains and raising those stocky, hearty Icelandic horses on the flat plain in between.

The island’s famous changing weather was less accommodating as it changed from light rain and wind to heavy rain and knock-you-over wind. There were a few breaks that allowed us to walk around but I’m afraid the lasting memory of this day will be the hours in a bus that eventually smelled like a locker room and viewing the world through a window that was as clear as a shower door and just as wet.

Skógafoss Waterfall, Iceland (14 March 2016)

The South Coast drive along the country’s main road, Route 1, reveals many waterfalls like this. Glacial melt water pours from the highlands to the sea. One could see a number of smaller cascades spilling over the edge of the cliffs and disappearing halfway down because the strong lateral winds would just turn the falls into a sideways mist that never reached the ground. At Skógafoss, you can hike a steep trail up to the crest of the cliff and look down on the falls as they drop away. Not today.

Ocean Cave and Basalt Columns at Reynisfjara (14 March 2016)

Next stop – the black sand beaches at Reynisfjara. It actually stopped raining when we arrived. The quick lunch and exploration of the beach happened without any precipitation. Like the Giants Causeway in Northern Ireland and other places around the world where lava eruptions have occurred, this beach has a cliff of interconnected, hexagonal columns of basalt.

To add to the interest of the place, our guide warned us in advance…and signs at the beach confirmed that we should be on guard for “sneaker waves.” The sea here will occasionally roll a rogue wave ashore. A week earlier, a visitor was swept away, never to be seen again.

Black Sand Beach at Reynisfjara (14 March 2016)

My only memory of another black sand beach was from Hawaii. Aside from the beautiful visuals of jet-black sand against lush, tropical vegetation and blue sky, I remember how scalding hot the sand was to walk on. Not a concern here.

A Gray Day at the Black Sand Beach (14 March 2016)

At this time on the tour, our guide learned that the road to the next stop, a place where we could get close to a glacier, was made impassable by a mudslide. ‘Plan B’ would take us to an observation area, actually in the vicinity of the cliffs you see in the photo above.

After that, we went to a little roadside attraction built by a local farmer whose homestead and family were directly affected by the eruption of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano in 2010. We saw a movie about the event and noodled around the exhibit and souvenirs on display. Imagine a volcano erupting beneath a glacier and the explosion that results when molten rock contacts cubic kilometers of ice. Floods of mud gushed off the plateau and the cloud of ash blasted into the high atmosphere essentially covered all of Europe and caused the cancellation of thousands of flights. As I recall, it also made for some magnificent sunsets. Mother Nature’s fury is often followed by beauty…as long as you can accept the mayhem and destruction somewhere else. Anyway, the film ended showing the family had dug out, cleaned up and restored the farm to its former self. These Vikings are a resilient lot.

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall (14 March 2016)

This was the last stop on the tour. I have seen some terrific images from this place…magic hour shots full of color, made even more interesting because you can take a path behind the cascade and shoot out toward the coast. Not today. The path was closed. The rain and wind were heavy, my all-weather coat was soaked and the camera stopped working. I fought the elements and the elements won.

The long ride back to Reykjavik was improved by the fact that we were the first passengers to be dropped off at our hotel. It did get better. After cleaning up, a short walk to a nice eatery yielded the best dinner of the trip – fresh fish, followed by some warm, dry time in our room.

By the way, that evening’s northern light trip was cancelled. Again.

Iceland – Day 2

Surprise! It takes more than a hurricane to cancel a field trip in this tough country. Off we go on the ‘Golden Circle and Secret Lagoon’ trip. First stop – Thingvellir National Park (the spelling is anglicized here because there are a couple of Icelandic letters that are not on our keyboards or in the Symbols menu).

Thingvellir National Park, Iceland (13 March 2016)

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the park is the only place on land where you can see the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates come together. This explains why the island is so rich in volcanoes, geysers and earthquakes.

Settled during the Viking Expansion, the first Norsemen arrived in 874. Another reason this park is so important is that it was here in the year 930 that the settlers formed their first legislative council. They have governed themselves democratically for over a thousand years.

Like with Britain and Ireland, the Gulf Stream current keeps the island’s climate relatively temperate. The latitude places Iceland well north of Hudson Bay, Canada and most of Siberia. The maritime climate also means the weather is ever-changing. From gray skies to rain to sun to horizontal snow and back again. That was the pattern for our entire stay…except for the sun part. We didn’t get much of that.

(Not so) Golden Falls, Iceland (13 March 2016)

The next stop was Gullfoss or Golden Falls, a cataract on the River Hvítá. It was here that the weather was the most challenging as we were exposed to gale winds and sleet that felt like needles when it hit your face. The trails were frozen and many of the visitors were blown to the ground. I like this image for its stark lack of color…like it was taken as a black and white picture…though not on purpose. If you Google ‘Gullfoss’, you can see what this area looks like in more accommodating seasons.

The Geysir Area, Iceland (13 March 2016)

Anyone who has been to Yellowstone National Park has seen terrain like this. The Geysir Area is a concentration of surface geothermal activity with boiling pools, steam vents and one pool that erupts into the air every few minutes. The weather calmed enough to make the walkabout easier and hot soup in the visitor center restaurant was much appreciated.

The Secret Lagoon, Iceland (13 March 2016)

So far, nothing about this adventure cries ‘swim suits’ but we packed them, given Iceland’s famous hot pools. At the end of the day, we were taken to The Secret Lagoon, an old swimming hole in a geothermal area. In the late 19th century, it was developed for the public as a place to learn how to swim. Now, the public (and the occasional tour bus) stop by for a relaxing soak. In the hour we spent in the 100+-degree water, we were ‘treated’ to rain, sleet, a brief snow squall and sunshine. It was other-worldly and a bit magical.

Hot Springs and a Frozen River, Iceland (13 March 2016)

This might be my favorite shot of the day. Just beyond the Secret Lagoon are other steaming puddles and vents. Naturally, this land is perpetually warm enough to keep the ground cover green and healthy…even as it sits right next to a near-frozen river with blocks of ice just a few feet away.

After a nice pizza dinner, we learned that the evening’s northern lights tour was cancelled again so we settled in for the night.

State Capitols – Madison, Wisconsin - Outside

Wisconsin Capitol in Madison (19 June 2009)

Constructed: – 1906-17

Architect: – George B. Post

State Admitted to Union: May 29, 1848 (30th)

State Population (2010): 5,686,986 (20th)

We interrupt our travels in Iceland to recognize today’s important presidential primary election and display a favorite capitol. When the State House Odyssey was first presented in 2011, the initial plan was to post them in the order they were visited. Then I thought I should be more blog-like and topical, so the Cheyenne, Wyoming capitol was posted because we were just there. That didn’t lead to an established pattern either. I guess I should stop analyzing and planning and just admit I’ll post what I want when I want.

Oh yes…another abandoned plan was to start with the capitols in states that were home. That way, I could speak from the experience as a resident, not just a visitor. In that vein, Maryland’s capitol has been the only one presented thus far from the four states that have been home.

Wisconsin was home for five years. The early 70’s were known for terrible winters…when I actually told my students that scientists were concerned about the ‘greenhouse effect’ because it might result in another ice age. Those were the days. Although I was so ready to escape Wisconsin for Louisiana, my appreciation for the state has increased each of the many times I have returned.

Capitol Symmetry, Madison (18 June 2009)

In 1836, Congress formally dedicated the Wisconsin Territory. Carved out of the original Northwest Territories, the land included what is now Minnesota and Iowa. Madison, named after our fourth president and home of the University of Wisconsin Badgers, has been the capital since Wisconsin became a state in 1848.

The Capitol building is the third in Madison and is in the heart of downtown, on the narrow land between two lakes, Mendota and Monona. Ironically, the second capitol was destroyed by fire in 1904, just a few weeks after the legislature voted to cancel its fire insurance.

The current building’s footprint is cruciform (cross-shaped) with four wings that radiate from the central rotunda. With four equal wings, the building has no obvious front. Financial limitations extended the construction schedule as each wing was completed separately.

The capitol exterior is made entirely of Vermont granite. The outer dome is the largest granite dome in the world and the only one in this country.

Wisconsin Capitol (12 September 2005)

The grounds are rather spare in the statue and memorial department. On the approach from State Street (see above) is a statue called ‘Forward.’ Originally created for the 1893 Columbian Exposition in Chicago, the heroic, female figure came to be associated with the women’s suffrage movement.

Col. Heg Guards the Capitol (18 June 2009)

On the King Street approach is a statue of Col. Hans Christian Heg. Like many northern capitols, Wisconsin’s has a place of honor for a Civil War hero. Born in Norway, he became an ardent abolitionist and led the only regiment of Scandinavian immigrants in the war. He was the highest-ranking Wisconsin officer to die in battle.

Entrance Lamps, Wisconsin Capitol, Madison (18 June 2009)

Although the state was home to the infamous Senator Joe McCarthy, until recently, it continued to enjoy a well-earned reputation for progressive politics and legislation. “Fighting Bob” La Follette is considered one of the finest senators in U.S. history. The state was the first to enact minimum wage and unemployment compensation laws. It was the first to create a Public Service Commission. Milwaukee had socialist mayors for decades in the 20th century. Many states have followed Wisconsin’s lead to create their own progressive legislation.

Later, after we finish the Iceland adventure, we’ll post some shots of the magnificent interior.