Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Ston Salt Works, Croatia

Our second day in DOO-brovnik was crystal clear. However, instead of heading back to the old quarter to take better images of scenes I already saw, we split up. Beck to the old city center to climb its walls and I went on an optional tour inland. I call it the ‘wine and salt and wine and oysters and wine and mussels and wine tour’.

The Wall, Ston, Croatia (4 November 2025)

Ston is a small town with a big reputation as it has produced salt since ancient times…since the mineral was a most prized possession. Beginning in the 1300’s, they began building a wall to protect their ‘white gold’ enterprise. Our guide called it the second longest man-made wall in the world, the ‘European Great Wall of China.’ At four miles, it has a way to go to challenge the other one (13,000+ miles)…but did deter and repel invaders for centuries.

Ston Salt Works, Croatia (4 November 2025)

We were there at the wrong time.

The fifty-eight cells of the operation were all flooded.

Ston Salt Works, Croatia (4 November 2025)

For over three thousand years, sea water has been directed into shallow pond cells where it evaporates during the summer months and is harvested by hand. These small railcars are filled and directed to the warehouse in the background, where it is packaged and widely sold.

 

Suspended Shellfish Production,

Bay of Mali Ston, Croatia (4 November 2025)

The next stop was a short boat ride on the Bay of Mali Ston where we were served more local beverages. The fresh and saltwater hydrology and protective landscape make the bay an ideal area for mariculture – the cultivation of marine/saltwater organisms. Oyster farming here dates back to Roman times, and the bay currently contributes 60% of the nation’s oyster production.

Our destination on the bay was a stationary floating combination shellfish production and picnic platform. The proprietor worked through an opening where ropes suspended colonies of oysters and mussels. Can’t get any fresher than that.

Harvesting Shellfish, Bay of Mali Ston, Croatia (4 November 2025)

Although the oysters were small and each visitor’s allotment 

was limited, they were tasty and the wine was plentiful.

Grappa Sampling, Croatia (4 November 2025)

At the last stop, at an actual winery, we sampled many flavors of local grappa before enjoying their wine. Across the street, the local cemetery was resplendent with All Saints Day décor…or is it where the last tour group resides?

Croatian Cemetery After All Saints Day, (4 November 2025)

The bus ride back to our boat was easy as I’m sure most of us were glad someone else was driving. Tomorrow, a new country on our cruise along the Dalmatian Coast toward Greece.

Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Dubrovnik

Our last stop in Croatia was Dubrovnik, probably the most famous and popular of the Croatian Dalmatian coast cities…and one that those of us who remember the awful ‘Homeland War’ recall, since it was under siege and bombed by Serbian/Montenegrin forces for months in 1991-92.

Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

“DOO-brov-nick”…we were told the accent is on the first, not the second syllable. It is known for its magnificent seaside walls that were built from the 13th to the 17th century. The peak of the independent city-state’s existence (1358-1808) is due to its tolerance of all faiths, abolition of slavery in 1416 and that it traded freely with the West in Europe and the east. Make trade, not war.

Sadly, this shot from high ground down the coast is as good as the morning haze would allow. It was overcast and rainy all day.

Behind the Wall, the Franciscan Friary Bell Tower,

Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

Fortunately, the rain stopped by the time we explored the inviting streets and alleys, but the low ceiling added a mood that I appreciated. Between the fortifications and the political acumen of the rulers, Dubrovnik thrived for centuries as a trading center…able to withstand the conquering impulses of European powers.

Amerling Fountain [1902], Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

Near the Pile Gate entrance to the old quarter is this mythological encounter. I was unable to find the exact tableau depicted, but do know that the figures are Aphrodite, the goddess of love and Pan, the god of the wild. She, in all her unclothed glory, appears to be trying to persuade him that he can do better than a sheep. Men are dumb sometimes.

 

Feeding Time, Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

Occasionally, a resident will attract the pigeons (rats with wings as far as I’m concerned) with food. The feeding frenzy lasts moments, and it’s amazing how every last one of them gets the signal to take off at the same instant.

Organ in St. Blaise Church, Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

St. Blaise church is dedicated to the patron saint of Dubrovnik, the head and protector of the city. The medieval edifice was completed in the 1350’s using funds from heirs killed by the Black Plague. That church was destroyed by an earthquake in 1667 and again by fire in 1706…not the best job of protecting, I suggest. The current baroque building was completed in 1715. One day I will write a blog post on the beautiful organs of European churches.

Old Town Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

The city was a primary location for shooting the ‘Game of Thrones’ TV series. Among the dozens of souvenir shops are a few that claim to be ‘official’ Game of Thrones purveyors…whatever that means.

Franciscan Friary and Church, Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

Not many structures survived the quake of 1667. It was good that all the churches were open during the day. Our guide said if we are caught in the rain, they are an easy refuge.

Although we were there a second day and it was bright and sunny, I chose to join a special side trip to the Ston salt pans and an oyster cultivation experience. Beck opted to return to climb the walls around the old quarter, but I couldn’t resist communing with my invertebrate friends.