Sunday, April 29, 2018

Italy – Day 2b – More of Milan

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (13 May 1999)

To one side of the magnificent Duomo on the square is The Galleria, which some consider the world’s first indoor mall. Known formally as Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, it is named for Victor Emanuel, the first ruler of the unified Kingdom of Italy since the 6th century. He was King of Sardinia before this promotion in 1861. The Galleria was completed in 1877.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (17 February 2018)

The place is noted for the glass and iron roof above and luxury shopping opportunities below. Two intersecting arcades create a great space under the central dome. There are mosaic floor decorations and detailed architectural features in all directions. They don’t build them like that anymore. We had a nice, relaxing lunch, people-watching as we dined, before exiting at the Statue of Leonardo.

Milan Galleria, Looking Toward Statue of Leonardo da Vinci (17 February 2018)

In front of Leonardo is a busy, cobblestone street and on the other side is the La Scala opera house__the Yankee Stadium, the St. Andrews of opera houses.

Completed in 1778, it is the cultural epicenter of Milan…and looks the part since it was extensively renovated in 2002-04. The attached opera museum has paintings, statuary and memorabilia from the theater’s long, impressive history.

La Scala Opera House, Milan (17 February 2018)

The opera season opens on December 7, the feast day of Milan’s patron St. Ambrose. For us, it’s Pearl Harbor Day. I suspect for Milan, it’s the biggest day on the cultural calendar.

The museum ticket includes a view of the theater from one of the SIX levels of box seating. As I stared into this amazing, plush space, it was easy to imagine dressing ‘to the nines’ and being HERE with the high-rollers, watching world-class opera.

Inside La Scala Opera House (17 February 2018)

We happened to be there during Carnivale. Mardi Gras and Ash Wednesday were earlier this week. I guess the weekend after is the time when the kids can get some fun in before all that Lenten discipline and deprivation. There were many costumed little ones in the Duomo Square and confetti and balloons were everywhere. By Monday, the Carnivale crowds were gone and only the tourists remained.

As is my wont, we’re walking through the Galleria and I’m scanning for image ideas. As I noted in last April’s Tip of the Day, I try to remember to look up now and then. Near the entrance, against the ornate ceiling, there was a Minion that had almost succeeded in his escape.

Minion on the Loose, Milan (19 February 2018)

Buona fortuna, little guy.
Maybe next time…

Friday, April 20, 2018

State Capitols – Jefferson City, Missouri - Outside

Missouri Capitol in Jefferson City (10 June 2008)

Constructed: 1913-1917
Architect: Tracy & Swartwout
State Admitted to Union: August 10, 1821 (24th)
State Population (2010): 5,988,927 (18th)

We interrupt our sojourn through northern Italy to post another state house story. I suppose I could wait for better news to present the 14th capitol in our series but scandals that involve our public servants are just too juicy to ignore.

Recently, the new, young governor of the Great State of Missour-uh found himself in a pickle. Eric Greitens, a former Navy SEAL, was a perfect candidate for the ‘Support-Our-Troops, Law & Order, Holier-than-Thou' Republicans…until he wasn’t. It was just regular sex - but not with his wife. “There was no blackmail. There was no violence” …until there was.

The crime is getting caught. Funny how the more one goes toward the extreme ends of the political spectrum, the less certain things seem to matter…like morals and ethics.

Missouri Capitol, Jefferson City (10 June 2008)

Enough ranting. I visited Jefferson City, during a magnificent road trip in 2008. The State Capitol Odyssey began when I had to schlep to the middle of the continent and complete the Dead Presidents Quest. So, on the way to Kansas (Ike) and then Texas (LBJ), there were all these grand state houses to visit.

In this age of GPS, finding a destination is no big deal anymore but I go back to the age of maps and road names. Sometimes, places were not easy to find. The neat thing about finding state capitals is the ample signage that directs you there from all sides of town. Then there are smaller places like Jefferson City where you can see the dome from miles away and directions are no longer necessary.

Statue of Who Else?
Missouri Capitol, Jefferson City (10 June 2008)

Completed in 1917, this is the third capitol building in Jefferson City. The first two were destroyed by fire in 1837 and 1911. Only nine years after the Louisiana Purchase, the Missouri Territory was created (1812) and nine years later, it became our 24th state. The first capital was in St. Charles. In those days, the action (and the population) was on the busy Mississippi River.

As the state grew, a more central location for government was preferred. Jefferson City is named for our third president and the man who acquired this territory from France in 1803. Fortunately, the current town name won out over ‘Missouriopolis.’

Missouri River Statue, State Capitol, Jefferson City (10 June 2008)

Two large statues flank the broad stairway on the south side of the capitol. Each represents the large rivers that are integral parts of the state. They are adorned with objects that remind us of the bounties that come from the land and water. A male figure on the opposite side represents the Mississippi River.

As you can see, this was a bright, sunny day with the sun high in the sky…usually not recommended for many photographic subjects. However, the monochrome scene and contrasting accents can still create a pleasing image.

Signing of the Louisiana Purchase Agreement
behind the Fountain of the Centaurs, 
Missouri State Capitol, Jefferson City (10 June 2008)

On the north capitol grounds is the Fountain of the Centaurs. Behind the fountain, on a bluff overlooking the Missouri River, is a high relief bronze depiction of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Both were dedicated in 1927. Or, if viewed together here, I might caption it ‘Judging the Winning entry in the Annual Missouri River Catfish Noodling Rodeo. Billy Bob Broadbutt displays his winning catch.’ Probably not.

The inside of the state house is too beautiful and interesting to make this a one-post story. When the Italy trip is done, we’ll return to Missouri for an appreciation of its magnificent interior.

Monday, April 09, 2018

Italy – Day 2a– Milan Duomo

Milan Cathedral (19 February 2018)

Out the door of the hotel…down the stairs to the Metro and out into the Duomo Square. We pick up tickets that include the elevator (vs. the stairs) to the roof and proceed to the line that gets us into the great Milan Cathedral. Uniformed military are there to check bags and control the entrances.

While claims of size can be tricky (height, area, volume, etc.), the Cathedral is among the largest Christian churches in the world and the largest in Italy (trivia trick – The larger St. Peters in Rome is really in the State of Vatican City).

Central Nave, Milan Cathedral (17 February 2018)

3,400 statues, 135 gargoyles and 700 additional figures. No other church I know is so festooned…so insistent on placing statuary in every possible place.

Fifty-two massive pillars create a space that is much wider than many Gothic churches from this time period and can accommodate 40,000 people. Begun in 1386, the cathedral took over 600 years to complete.

St. Bartholomew Flayed, Milan Cathedral (17 February 2018)

Bartholomew was one of Jesus’ 12 Apostles and was said to have been skinned alive. Only John lived to die peacefully while all the rest were martyred in one gruesome way or another. Sculpted by Marco d’Agrate in 1562, the Saint is shown with his skin wrapped around him like a stole.

Madonnina del Duomo, Milan Cathedral (17 February 2018)

At the rear of the church, behind the altar, are three magnificent stained-glass windows, each with over a hundred colorful panels. In front of the windows is a replica of the Madonnina, the gold figure that tops the highest spire above the church.

From the Roof of the Milan Cathedral
(17 February 2018)

It was not a clear, pleasant day but at least it wasn’t raining. From the passages that lead to the roof, you could see many flying buttresses and gargoyles up close…and hordes of tourists taking selfies with buttresses and gargoyles as their backdrop. The picture here shows part of one corner of the cathedral. One can imagine the effort it took. Look closely and everything you see is ornately carved out of stone.

The Sacred and the Secular, Milan Cathedral (17 February 2018)

Among the hundreds of statues that look outward from the Duomo, the special ones sit atop tall, narrow spires. They stand, ever-watchful over the modern Milan. The saying is, ‘For every church in Rome, there is a bank in Milan.’

This first full day in Milan was too packed and interesting for one, long post. Stay tuned for two more illustrated stories.