Places - # 13 - Santorini, Part One, 1998

Have you ever been to a place that was so special, you knew you wanted to return while you were still there? Before you pack to go home, you’re thinking about how and when you might come around again.

Blue Dome and Blue Sea, Santorini (September 1998)

I can count on one hand the times that has happened. I grew up a big city kid and didn’t travel much until I was an adult living on my own. Hawaii was the first place that provoked that response. I had never been anywhere tropical before and the clear water and lush vegetation captivated me.

Before 1998, I had been to Europe one time. Nine years earlier, we spent two weeks in Britain. That first time abroad certainly was special as we drove through England, Scotland and Wales. The green Yorkshire hills, Edinburgh and the Lake District were all interesting…but the temperate environment resembles what I was used to seeing on this side of the Atlantic.

Fira at Night (September 1998)

In September of that year, we joined another couple for a week in Greece. After a few days in Athens, we flew to the island of Santorini…and the magic began. After the bustling, big city, this was an amazing transformation.

Here was this crescent-shaped island, blown apart 3600 years ago by one of the most powerful volcanic eruptions in human history. On one side is the rim of the old caldera up to a thousand feet above the shimmering sea. The other side has vineyards and scattered housing as it slopes gently down to smaller towns and beaches.

A Meal with a View, Santorini (September 1998)

We stayed in Fira, essentially the capital of the island. Cruise ships occasionally visit and discharge passengers at the base of the cliff via smaller boats. From there, you can walk up the 600 stone steps to town, rent a donkey who will carry up the steps (no extra charge for that pungent donkey smell) or drop a few drachma’s and take the new cable car. One day, we walked down to the little port but took the cable car back. It was vacation after all.

There are many public places on the rim where you can enjoy the magnificent view of the dazzling Aegean Sea. They are especially popular for happy hour sunset gazing since this side of the island faces west.

View from the Rim, Santorini (September 1998)

I suspect this is one of the most photographed spots on the island. I’ve seen this church in many articles, calendars and promotions for the island. Truth is, bright mid-day light, while contrasting sharply with the deep blue water, creates shadows and is not the best illumination for this scene. This is borne out by the crowds and cameras that gather here for prime shooting spots long before sunset.

‘Rigor Mortis’ Nap, Santorini (September 1998)

You will find dogs and cats sleeping everywhere. It’s just the thing to do during the hot, mid-day times.

Almost every building is white and stands out against the ground, water or sky. The September weather was perfect…warm and dry. I assumed that because it was September, tourist children were back in school. It was calm, quiet and easy. All contributed to an overwhelming romantic vibe. It was a place for couples…old and young, gay and straight. Warm water to swim in…and that extra salty Mediterranean water makes it easy to float adding to the tranquil mood. Wonderful food and wine. Amazing views. Charming shopping along the narrow alleys of the towns. We took taxis to a beach and the famed Akrotiri archaeological site but otherwise, it was easy to walk wherever you needed to be. Except for the sunset-post-sunset eating and clubbing crowds in town, it was quiet, calm and so relaxing. Forget thinking about returning one day. I didn’t want to leave.

See Part Two.