River Cruise Diary – Bernkastel, Germany

Another overcast day but we ARE sailing during the day so, I’m enjoying watching some new territory scroll by. I’m afraid I may not have been consistent with the name of the river…Moselle (French)…Mosel (German). The river is smaller than the Rhine. The valley is V-shaped vs. the broader U-shape of the mainstem river. For this passenger, that means we’re closer to the shoreline sights.

We arrived at the next stop two hours early. Bernkastel (‘Bear Castle’) is another of those charming medieval towns surrounded by vineyards that come down the hillside right up the last building in the village. Two days later, we returned to Bernkastel after our furthest upstream stop in Trier. The shots and stories here will include both visits.

Market Square, Bernkastel, Germany (15 November 2019) 

The medieval town center has retained its 17th century 

half-timbered buildings and appearance. St. Michael’s 

Fountain on the right was installed in 1606. 

Spitzhäuschen, Bernkastel, Germany (13 November 2019) 

Just off the old market square is Spitzhäuschen 

(“pointed house”), an extremely narrow building wedged 

into the cobblestone lanes as it has been since 1416. 

Landshut Castle on the Hill Above 

Bernkastel, Germany (13 November 2019) 

We decided to take a hike after breakfast and climb to this ancient tower that is now a beer garden…which the saner locals can drive to…most exercise I’ve had since we left the states. Great view of the river, town and our boat.

The View from Landshut Castle, 

Bernkastel, Germany (13 November 2019) 

The ruins date back to 1276 but the castle was 

built on the site of a 4th century Roman fortification. 

On the morning we left Trier, two thirds of the passengers opted for the optional side trip to Luxembourg. They will see one of the four European Union capitals, the site of the Battle of the Bulge and one of the classic American Cemeteries for our WW II GI’s. I stayed to enjoy the views as we sailed 39 miles back to Bernkastel.

Mosel Vineyards in Autumn (15 November 2019) 

There weren’t many bright sunny days on this trip. As long as it’s not raining, I don’t mind. It rained briefly yesterday but the shower began and ended while we were eating lunch…lucky.

Overcast days make the colors richer and images lack the sharp contrasts that result from bright sun and deep shadows.

‘Cusanusstift’, Kues, Germany (15 November 2019) 

Back in Bernkastel, after lunch, we had a free afternoon to wander the quaint, old, narrow streets of the towns. The sister town on the shore opposite Bernkastel is Kues. The Cusanusstift hospital was founded in 1447 by Kues’ most prominent ancestor, Cardinal Nicholas Cusanus, one of the first German Renaissance humanists. The original hospital/chapel facility continues the Cardinal’s tradition of housing 33 senior citizens in need…33 being Christ’s age at death. It is also a library and wine museum. The fall colors add to the scene.

Autumn on the Mosel (15 November 2019)

At this point in the trip, I felt fully engaged and relaxed. The schedule, weather, activity choices, eating discipline and wardrobe decisions were all working nicely. We were in full vacation mode and mood.

Next stop (after the first day here) will be upstream at the Roman capitol of Trier, the furthest we will sail up the Mosel.