River Cruise Diary – Boppard, Germany

Finally…and the cruise had to do this…we float down the Rhine during the day to see some of the most picturesque and historic scenery on the entire river. Quaint towns with distinctive old buildings and churches line the riverfront. Ancient vineyards climb up the steep hillsides.

The Town of Assmannshausen on the Rhine (12 November 2019) 

I’ve complained about all the night sailing but I understand it’s important to get us to the next port of call and there’s not much daytime in November to start with. Plus, it’s chilly and damp…not like the long, sunny, shirt-sleeve days in August. The downside then is that it could get stinky hot and the tourist crowds can be oppressive. I’m OK with off-season trips to Europe. Dress for the weather and appreciate the freedom of movement. The foggy morning in Strasbourg alone was worth it.

The river has been the main thoroughfare through the region for thousands of years…predating the railroads and highways that now also snake along the shoreline. I am happy to be on the slowest of the three modes of transportation…sipping hot chocolate…enjoying the beautiful scenery scrolling by at a leisurely pace…waiting for the next photo op.

Stahleck Castle on the Middle Rhine (12 November 2019) 

Grapes for wine have been cultivated in the Rhine and Moselle valleys for close to 2000 years. This stretch of river also had many old castles up on the high ground…some ruins and some restored into ritzy hotels.

The ‘Pfalz’, Rhine River, Germany (12 November 2019) 

Now a museum, the Pfalzgrafenstein Castle was built in the 1300’s and functioned as a toll station. In those days, the only safe passage for river traffic was between the castle and the fortress in the nearby town. A chain across that passage and a dungeon in the castle was enough to guarantee a regular revenue stream for whoever claimed the Divine Right to own it.

The Lorelei (12 November 2019) 

The middle reaches of the river include an area called the Rhine Gorge. The cliff pictured here is the infamous Lorelei. Various folklore stories refer to damsels and alluring female voices that lure watermen to their doom on the rocks. The river bends and is narrow and deep here. The currents can be tricky. In 2011, a barge carrying 2400 tons of sulfuric acid capsized here blocking hundreds of vessels for weeks. I have to add, for you ‘we-don’t-need-all-that-stifling-regulation-crap’ readers. Because the barge was a modern, double-hull design, no acid spilled into the river.

Downtown Boppard, Germany (12 November 2019) 

The delightful morning sail ended when we docked in Boppard. The town began as a 4th century Roman settlement and is now a charming tourist and wine growing center. We landed around 11 AM and took a brief walking tour before lunch. There were remains of the Roman walls, the 13th century church and other charming items of note. With nothing like the extensive gyms one can find on ocean liners, the daily walks were important opportunities to move.

Saint Severus’s Church, Boppard, Germany (12 November 2019) 

Compared to many of the cathedrals we will see, St. Severus is modest but still impressive. The building dates to the 13th century but stands where Christian chapels have stood since the 5th century.

Boppard River Walk and the ‘River Harmony’ (12 November 2019) 

Many of the passengers elected to take the optional tour of Marksburg Castle. I chose to stay on the boat and enjoy the quiet afternoon and Autumn light. That evening, we set sail for the next stop – Bernkastel on the Moselle River. This meant we took a hard left at Koblenz and sailed upstream on one of the Rhine’s main tributaries…not that many would notice in the dark.