River Cruise Diary - Alsace Wine Country - Riquewihr
We left Basel on a Friday evening and sailed downstream on the Rhine to Strasbourg, France. Because we were in the upper reaches of the Rhine and Moselle, the itinerary required more sailing at night. We needed to be at the destination towns by morning and the smaller rivers had more time-consuming locks to navigate.
The Alsace region of northeastern France borders Germany and the territory has been disputed forever. Since 1681, control by the two nations changed hands five times thus one finds a blended, hybrid language and culture there.
On Saturday, they bussed us into the countryside to Riquewihr, a medieval town known for its Riesling wine. Cobblestone streets, stork nests on the roofs of centuries-old half-timbered houses…a quaint time capsule of a place. The only buzz kill was the occasional car moving you aside.
Often referred to as a ‘commune’, the village is one of the few towns in the region not badly damaged during World War II. Clearly a very popular tourist attraction, I counted ten tour busses in the parking lot on this chilly day.
The charm of the town is that it has retained its 16th century appearance. One can sample the many wine shops and come away with a bottle to keep in the cabin for Happy Hour or a late-night nip…one of the reasons my shaving kit includes a travel cork screw.
Inspired by the American colonies that designated trees associated their new independence, the French also planted ‘Liberty Trees’ during their revolution. This linden tree on the edge of town is one.
The white stork in Europe has a long cultural connection to the people. Myths, legends and fables go back to ancient times. It was a sign of luck when a stork chose your house to make its home…hence their association with delivering new babies. That myth was solidified in Victorian England because the prudes were too embarrassed to explain the real facts of life to their children.
European storks winter in Africa so while we saw a few roof-top nests, the big white birds were long gone…another downside to visiting in November. This huge nest appears to be occupied by a flock of pigeons. Not the same.
Apparently, not every everyone here is in that happy, tourist-welcoming frame of mind…however, Halloween can bring out the odd side in some.
It was a long day and we returned to the boat after dark. Tomorrow, we visit the old quarters of Strasbourg.
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