River Cruise Diary – Speyer, Germany
It is Veteran’s Day in the States…Remembrance Day in the United Kingdom. Used to be called Armistice Day. The ship’s staff paid tribute to the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month of 1918 when the guns fell silent and the Great War in Europe ended.
The next stop sailing down the Rhine was Speyer, Germany. No more stops in France. Not that spending much time up on the sun deck is easy in this chilly, damp weather, but my main complaint so far would be that we move between towns at night and I miss watching the river valley and countryside scrolling by. Of course, if we had done this trip in the summer, the days would have been much longer and we would see considerably more as we navigated the river.
Speyer is a town noted for its history as a Roman outpost that grew into one of the central cities of the Holy Roman Empire as well as a thriving Jewish community.
Our guide (Amin, an interesting Egyptian Muslim married to a British Catholic woman he met on a tour) took us to the old Jewish quarter. He noted that Jews were invited to settle here in 1084 because their skills, talents and education were viewed as community assets. The area thrived and became one of the more significant Jewish communities in the Holy Roman Empire. Coexistence continued until the population was wiped out in the Holocaust. Amin decried anti-Semitism and was emotional by the time the Holocaust information was noted.
Another UNESCO Heritage site, the Speyer Cathedral is the largest and one of the most significant Romanesque churches still standing. Begun in 1030 and consecrated in 1061, it illustrates the many features employed before Gothic architecture took off.
Unlike many ancient churches that have grown or been remodeled over the centuries and added Gothic and other styles, Speyer is still a Romanesque structure with heavy features and smaller windows.
During our free afternoon, we visited the Speyer Technical Museum. As we walked toward it, there was this frightening image of a 747 WAY too close to the ground…like a scene from a disaster movie. The Museum is as big and full of machines as any counterpart in the U.S. like the Henry Ford Museum in Detroit. Locomotives, U-boats, airplanes, an IMAX theater…the place is extensive.
The retired Lufthansa jet is mounted on tall pedestals and you can climb up and into it…and view the jumbo jet from perspectives few can.
The extensive grounds are covered with aircraft, naval vessels, old automobiles and all manner of mechanized things…like this old tri-motor passenger plane.
The floor around a Soviet-era space shuttle was being prepared for a dinner party. Who knew the Ruskies had their own shuttle program? The BURAN program sought to replicate America’s reusable space craft idea but this all happened when the Soviet Union was collapsing and nothing much came of it beyond this prototype.
Another busy, interesting day ended with a fine meal and the evening’s entertainment: a five-woman acapella singing group. Tomorrow, we finally sail the best part of the Rhine in the daytime.
2 Comments:
Hi Ted, I am very much enjoying the trip thus far. Your pics and prose engage me very well. Made me wish I had been there. I too love those river cruises. Hugs, Bev
Well, thank you, Bev. Maybe when I run low on ideas, I can do another series on the cruises we took together.
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