Passed Chief Justices - # 5 – Roger Brooke Taney

Bust of Chief Justice Taney, U.S. Supreme Court,

Washington, D.C. (11 April 2019)

Recently, our Supreme Court denied President Trump’s attempt to overturn birthright citizenship as stipulated in the Constitution’s Fourteenth Amendment. What a coincidence. The next one up in my Departed Chief Justice Chase is Number 5. What better time to pause on travels and visit the author of what many believe is the worst decision the Court ever made.

For almost 63 years in the 19th century, just two men held the position of Chief Justice of the United States…John Marshall, the GOAT, served more than 34 years and his successor another 28-plus years. Only two other Chief Justices served more than twenty years and one is the current Chief, John Roberts. While Marshall served during the terms of six presidents, Taney was in the chair for ten administrations.

Roger B. Taney, Fifth Chief Justice of the United States

(Photographed by Matthew Brady late in his career)

Born during the Revolution to a wealthy slave-owning family in southern Maryland, he read the law and rose through state politics. By the time Andrew Jackson became president, Taney changed parties and became a Democrat. He served briefly in the Jackson administration as Secretary of State, Treasury and War before his appointment as the fifth Chief Justice on the high court.

The decades before the Civil War were ones of brief presidencies, national expansion, and constant tension regarding our ‘Original Sin,’ the institution of slavery.

Taney is remembered (and reviled) because he wrote the dreadful Dred Scott decision in 1857. Congress couldn’t settle the slavery issue so both sides thought they might gain the traction they needed with a favorable decision by the Supreme Court. Sound familiar?

We talk of the divisions on today’s Supreme Court. It’s the Conservatives and the Liberals. In 1857, the court was more divided with Southern, pro-slavery and Northern, abolitionist justices. Taney and his 7-2 majority hoped to permanently remove slavery as a topic of national debate.

Mr. Scott claimed to be free because his owners had taken him to live in free states and territories. Roger and his confederates thought otherwise. Here’s how they thought to settle the issue for good. The decision held that:

1. No African American, free or enslaved, enjoyed the rights of a citizen under our Constitution. Because Mr. Scott was Black, he had no right to bring a lawsuit.
2. The Missouri Compromise (which barred slavery north of a defined latitude) was unconstitutional
3. Congress did not have the power to bar slavery in any of the western territories. Only the states can bar slavery.
4. Finally, Mr. Scott. You’re a slave again. Have a nice day.

And four years later, we were at war with ourselves.

Statue of Roger B. Taney by William Henry Rinehart [1872]

Capitol Grounds, Annapolis MD (25 April 2015)

Erected eight years after he died, a statue of the Chief Justice was placed in a prominent location near the Maryland State capitol in Annapolis. Our small state has not produced any presidents and few other figures of national stature. After Vice President Spiro T. Agnew, he was our only other national guy...not exactly a pair to be proud of.

I’m glad I got this image when I did since the statue was removed in 2017 following the public outrage after the White nationalist rally in Charlottesville, Virginia resulted in the death of a counter protester. At the same time, Baltimore City also removed a replica of the Taney statue and three Confederate monuments. Nine years later, I suspect they are still in storage somewhere in Baltimore county.

Modern Headstone at Grave of Roger B. Taney,

St. John the Evangelist Cemetery, Frederick, MD (19 September 2017)

Over the years, I have heard his name as “TAY-nee” or “Tan-ee”
No one from Maryland, in the media or on the streets does that. Around here, it’s “TAW-nee.” Northwest of Baltimore is his namesake village, “Taw-nee-town.”

Gravesite of Roger B. Taney, St. John the Evangelist Cemetery,

Frederick, MD (19 September 2017)

Name – Roger Brooke Taney

Born – 17 March 1777; Calvert County, MD

Died – 12 October 1864; Washington, D.C. (age 87)

Nominated by – Andrew Jackson

Preceded by – John Marshall

Succeeded by – Salmon Chase

Served as Chief Justice – 28 March 1836 – 12 October 1864

(28 years, 198 days)

Resting Place – St. John the Evangelist Cemetery, Frederick, MD

Date Visited – 19 September 2017

Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Ston Salt Works, Croatia

Our second day in DOO-brovnik was crystal clear. However, instead of heading back to the old quarter to take better images of scenes I already saw, we split up. Beck to the old city center to climb its walls and I went on an optional tour inland. I call it the ‘wine and salt and wine and oysters and wine and mussels and wine tour’.

The Wall, Ston, Croatia (4 November 2025)

Ston is a small town with a big reputation as it has produced salt since ancient times…since the mineral was a most prized possession. Beginning in the 1300’s, they began building a wall to protect their ‘white gold’ enterprise. Our guide called it the second longest man-made wall in the world, the ‘European Great Wall of China.’ At four miles, it has a way to go to challenge the other one (13,000+ miles)…but did deter and repel invaders for centuries.

Ston Salt Works, Croatia (4 November 2025)

We were there at the wrong time.

The fifty-eight cells of the operation were all flooded.

Ston Salt Works, Croatia (4 November 2025)

For over three thousand years, sea water has been directed into shallow pond cells where it evaporates during the summer months and is harvested by hand. These small railcars are filled and directed to the warehouse in the background, where it is packaged and widely sold.

 

Suspended Shellfish Production,

Bay of Mali Ston, Croatia (4 November 2025)

The next stop was a short boat ride on the Bay of Mali Ston where we were served more local beverages. The fresh and saltwater hydrology and protective landscape make the bay an ideal area for mariculture – the cultivation of marine/saltwater organisms. Oyster farming here dates back to Roman times, and the bay currently contributes 60% of the nation’s oyster production.

Our destination on the bay was a stationary floating combination shellfish production and picnic platform. The proprietor worked through an opening where ropes suspended colonies of oysters and mussels. Can’t get any fresher than that.

Harvesting Shellfish, Bay of Mali Ston, Croatia (4 November 2025)

Although the oysters were small and each visitor’s allotment 

was limited, they were tasty and the wine was plentiful.

Grappa Sampling, Croatia (4 November 2025)

At the last stop, at an actual winery, we sampled many flavors of local grappa before enjoying their wine. Across the street, the local cemetery was resplendent with All Saints Day décor…or is it where the last tour group resides?

Croatian Cemetery After All Saints Day, (4 November 2025)

The bus ride back to our boat was easy as I’m sure most of us were glad someone else was driving. Tomorrow, a new country on our cruise along the Dalmatian Coast toward Greece.

Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Dubrovnik

Our last stop in Croatia was Dubrovnik, probably the most famous and popular of the Croatian Dalmatian coast cities…and one that those of us who remember the awful ‘Homeland War’ recall, since it was under siege and bombed by Serbian/Montenegrin forces for months in 1991-92.

Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

“DOO-brov-nick”…we were told the accent is on the first, not the second syllable. It is known for its magnificent seaside walls that were built from the 13th to the 17th century. The peak of the independent city-state’s existence (1358-1808) is due to its tolerance of all faiths, abolition of slavery in 1416 and that it traded freely with the West in Europe and the east. Make trade, not war.

Sadly, this shot from high ground down the coast is as good as the morning haze would allow. It was overcast and rainy all day.

Behind the Wall, the Franciscan Friary Bell Tower,

Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

Fortunately, the rain stopped by the time we explored the inviting streets and alleys, but the low ceiling added a mood that I appreciated. Between the fortifications and the political acumen of the rulers, Dubrovnik thrived for centuries as a trading center…able to withstand the conquering impulses of European powers.

Amerling Fountain [1902], Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

Near the Pile Gate entrance to the old quarter is this mythological encounter. I was unable to find the exact tableau depicted, but do know that the figures are Aphrodite, the goddess of love and Pan, the god of the wild. She, in all her unclothed glory, appears to be trying to persuade him that he can do better than a sheep. Men are dumb sometimes.

 

Feeding Time, Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

Occasionally, a resident will attract the pigeons (rats with wings as far as I’m concerned) with food. The feeding frenzy lasts moments, and it’s amazing how every last one of them gets the signal to take off at the same instant.

Organ in St. Blaise Church, Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

St. Blaise church is dedicated to the patron saint of Dubrovnik, the head and protector of the city. The medieval edifice was completed in the 1350’s using funds from heirs killed by the Black Plague. That church was destroyed by an earthquake in 1667 and again by fire in 1706…not the best job of protecting, I suggest. The current baroque building was completed in 1715. One day I will write a blog post on the beautiful organs of European churches.

Old Town Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

The city was a primary location for shooting the ‘Game of Thrones’ TV series. Among the dozens of souvenir shops are a few that claim to be ‘official’ Game of Thrones purveyors…whatever that means.

Franciscan Friary and Church, Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

Not many structures survived the quake of 1667. It was good that all the churches were open during the day. Our guide said if we are caught in the rain, they are an easy refuge.

Although we were there a second day and it was bright and sunny, I chose to join a special side trip to the Ston salt pans and an oyster cultivation experience. Beck opted to return to climb the walls around the old quarter, but I couldn’t resist communing with my invertebrate friends.

Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Korčula

The postings so far this year have been pretty meager. I hope to return to graves, stories and rants before too long. Until then, the travel stories continue.

Sunday Morning in Korčula (2 November 2025)

We sailed away from Split and the next day, we were on the island of Korčula, pronounced “Kor-chu-la.” Its claim to fame is that it’s said to be the birthplace of Marco Polo. Off the Dalmatian coast, the island covers 108 square miles and has over 15,000 inhabitants. That makes it the most populated Adriatic island NOT connected to the mainland by a bridge.

It was Sunday morning and our walkabout was delightfully quiet. All the businesses were closed and there were no other tour groups in sight. We had the streets and narrow alleys to ourselves.

Old Town Gate, Korčula, Croatia (2 November 2025)

The Croatian flag flies above the passage into the old quarter.

Korčula is often described as a ‘Little Dubrovnik’ because of its well-preserved walls and Gothic architecture. The tidy island has a fine dining and wine rep…without the crowds…so far. It’s unique white wine, called ‘Grk,’ can only be experienced here since the authorities have determined that not enough is produced to allow its export.

St. Mark’s Church, Korčula, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Over 80% of Croatians are Catholic, so there are many dioceses and cathedrals. St. Mark’s in Korčula used to be one. The modest Romanesque church dates to the 15th century, and earlier churches occupied the site. It was a cathedral until 1828 when Dubrovnik officially subsumed the honor, and that city’s bigger church became a cathedral.

 

Altar with Tintoretto Painting

St. Mark’s Church, Korčula, Croatia (2 November 2025)

The little church’s claim to fame is the Tintoretto 1550 painting

of St. Mark with two other saints, Bartholomew and Jerome.

Virgin and Child With Saints [1431] by Blaž Jurjev

Bishop’s Treasury Museum, Korčula, Croatia (2 November 2025)

Next to the church is the Bishop’s Treasury Museum. It is a tidy little place, up a creaking stairway, filled with centuries-old vestments, coins, art and sculpture. I took only a few shots inside, but liked the look of this polyptych. Turns out it is one of the most prominent items in the collection.

View of the Mainland from Korčula (2 November 2025)

I can see why Korčula might be an attractive destination. The beaches and other waterfront attractions on one side of the island have a fine view of the mountains across the narrow Strait of Pelješac.

Off we go to the next stop, the special city of Dubrovnik.

Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Split, Croatia

From Zadar we sailed to Split, the second largest city in Croatia…again at night. I guess they just believe it’s November and we’d all prefer to be in the next place rather than sit on the sun deck and watch the world go by. I won’t complain since this is not a river cruise.

Approaching Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

However, the coast can be interesting. Here, we approach the ancient city that was built against dramatic highlands.

 

M/V Athena (1 November 2025)

This is our boat. A cozy 48 passengers. Our room is halfway along the middle deck, which is a good place to be if the water is rough since the middle heaves and rocks less than the ends of the ship. Fortunately, there were no days during this coastal excursion where our tolerance was tested.

Diocletian’s Palace, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

The main attraction in the city of Split, Croatia is the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian. He was born in this region and ascended to the top job by rising through the military ranks. He is known for running the largest, bloodiest persecution of Christians (305-312) and being the first emperor to abdicate/retire.

Inside Diocletian’s Compound, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Covering almost eight acres, half the compound was for the personal use of the retired emperor, and the other half was a military garrison. Today, the complex has many hotels, apartments, cafes, and 3000 residents. The area includes a cathedral and other Christian chapels. This building’s corner decoration features St. Anthony with a clock tower behind.

Through the Bronze Gate, Diocletian’s Palace, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Because the site is considered the finest remining example of a Roman palace, UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in 1979. The South or Bronze Gate is one of four main portals through the fortress walls. It is now the main entance for visitors, though at one time, it opened to docks on the waterfront.

 

Cathedral of St. Dominus, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Because the church itself occupies Diocletian’s mausoleum which dates to the year 305, it is considered the oldest Catholic cathedral still in its original structure. The Romanesque bell tower dates to the 12th century and is dedicated to St. Dominus, who was beheaded during one of Diocletian’s Christian purges.

 

View From Marjan Hill, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Later, we trudged up Marjan Hill for this view of the city and harbor. The palace is in the middle foreground with the tall tower of St. Domnius Cathedral prominent in the compound.

Jewish Cemetery, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

In the 1500’s, Sephardic Jews escaping the inquisitions in Spain and Portugal, established a synagogue next to Diocletian’s Palace. At the time, a cemetery was also created on Marjan Hill. Italian and Croatian fascists helped obliterate the community during WW II. Only about one hundred active Jews reside in Split today.

 

Grgur Ninski [1929] by Ivan Mestrovic,

Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Gregory of Nin was a bishop who strongly opposed the pope and introduced the Catholic services in Croatian instead of Latin. While it strengthened the faith among the people, it angered the pope and Gregory was demoted and relocated in 928. A thousand years later, this statue was dedicated, and ever since, locals rub the bishop’s toe for luck.

Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Zadar, Croatia

Now it’s Thursday, 30 October and we’re finally packed up and on a bus headed toward the port where we will board our ship. On the way, we stop at one of Croatia’s great national parks. Plitvice Lakes National Park is a unique environment where limestone and dolomite geology has created a chain of lakes that cascade into one another.

Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia (30 October 2025)

It is the nation’s oldest and largest national park. There are two trails that get you through the area. I took the shorter upper trail because I don’t trust my old legs. Also, the trail rose above the waters and allowed for more panoramic views of the fascinating features.

 

Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia (30 October 2025)

The cascades are impressive. One shot I will not show is another sign of the Apocalypse. When I zoomed in on a trail below, there were two young people right next to waterfalls and crystal waters and exotic vegetation…looking at their phones.

Zadar Waterfront (31 October 2025)

By the end of the day, we were in Zadar, an ancient port city known to the Greeks and Romans.

Finally, on the eighth day of the trip, we are on the boat. After unpacking in our cabin, we walked around the waterfront. The sea wall and promenade made for an attractive stroll. The following morning, we continued to walk through the ancient quarter.

Roman Forum, Zadar, Croatia (31 October 2025)

The old quarter of Zadar is really old and has more ancient churches that would seem necessary…but that’s old Christians for you. Here among the Roman ruins is the bell tower of St. Anastasia Cathedral next to the round Church of St. Donatus.

St. Donatus Church (31 October 2025)

St. Donatus is a pre-Romanesque design that dates to the 9th century. It was constructed with materials taken from the nearby Roman forum. The inside is captivating when you think of what has transpired there over twelve centuries. As a current music venue, the acoustics are said to be excellent.

St. Chrysogonas Church (31 October 2025)

St. Chrysogonas is the patron saint of Zadar. He was martyred during Emperor Diocletian’s rampage against Christians around 310. This classic Romanesque church is named after him.

‘My Little Violet,’ Zadar, Croatia (31 October 2025)

As you might imagine, you can find some spectacular yachts in this part of the world. Docked here in Zadar is the ‘My Little Violet.’ You can look it up. A modest 150 feet long, it accommodates ten guests in five suites…so you and four other couples can split the 200,000 Euros/week rental charge.

We’re finally at sea and future Cruise Chronicles can live up to its name.

Adriatic Cruise Chronicle – Varazdin, Croatia

Town Square, Varazdin, Croatia (29 October 2025)

Today, we were taken to the charming baroque city of Varazdin. Compared to Vienna back in the day, the city was an important center during the reign of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. That is, until a fire in 1776 destroyed 80% of the city. After that, the power center moved to Zagreb, but the baroque charm remains. Above are the town hall and main square lined with cafes.

Stari Grad, Varazdin, Croatia (29 October 2025)

The centerpiece of the town is ‘Stari Grad.’ The fortress dates to the 12th century and was the seat of power for whoever conquered the area. Now a museum, it is the main attraction of the town but is also closed for renovation. I’m glad this country is doing what it can to restore historic properties…just sorry I couldn’t see them on this visit.

Inside the Entomology Museum, Varazdin, Croatia (29 October 2025)

Look at what else do we found here for the bug guy - the Museum of Entomology. This tidy little attraction houses the collected life work of a local scientist presented in an appealing way.

Look Down, Varazdin, Croatia (29 October 2025)

I must admit the town does have exquisite manhole covers.

Varazdin, Croatia (29 October 2025)

All over Europe, couples have declared their love by placing a lock on public fences and bridge railings. Varazdin either lacks similar places or has the good sense to create an appealing alternative in keeping with its baroque styles. Our local tour guide, dressed in period costume, added to the authenticity of our visit.

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary,

Varazdin, Croatia (29 October 2025)

We ducked into a modest church for a moment. The altar area is a fine representation of baroque excess with angels on top of statues on top of paintings on top of gold accents. When Pope John Paul II declared Varazdin a diocese in 1997, the church became a cathedral.

Tomorrow, we (finally) get to the coast and board the small ship that was the reason we booked this deal in the first place.