Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Dubrovnik

Our last stop in Croatia was Dubrovnik, probably the most famous and popular of the Croatian Dalmatian coast cities…and one that those of us who remember the awful ‘Homeland War’ recall, since it was under siege and bombed by Serbian/Montenegrin forces for months in 1991-92.

Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

“DOO-brov-nick”…we were told the accent is on the first, not the second syllable. It is known for its magnificent seaside walls that were built from the 13th to the 17th century. The peak of the independent city-state’s existence (1358-1808) is due to its tolerance of all faiths, abolition of slavery in 1416 and that it traded freely with the West in Europe and the east. Make trade, not war.

Sadly, this shot from high ground down the coast is as good as the morning haze would allow. It was overcast and rainy all day.

Behind the Wall, the Franciscan Friary Bell Tower,

Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

Fortunately, the rain stopped by the time we explored the inviting streets and alleys, but the low ceiling added a mood that I appreciated. Between the fortifications and the political acumen of the rulers, Dubrovnik thrived for centuries as a trading center…able to withstand the conquering impulses of European powers.

Amerling Fountain [1902], Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

Near the Pile Gate entrance to the old quarter is this mythological encounter. I was unable to find the exact tableau depicted, but do know that the figures are Aphrodite, the goddess of love and Pan, the god of the wild. She, in all her unclothed glory, appears to be trying to persuade him that he can do better than a sheep. Men are dumb sometimes.

 

Feeding Time, Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

Occasionally, a resident will attract the pigeons (rats with wings as far as I’m concerned) with food. The feeding frenzy lasts moments, and it’s amazing how every last one of them gets the signal to take off at the same instant.

Organ in St. Blaise Church, Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

St. Blaise church is dedicated to the patron saint of Dubrovnik, the head and protector of the city. The medieval edifice was completed in the 1350’s using funds from heirs killed by the Black Plague. That church was destroyed by an earthquake in 1667 and again by fire in 1706…not the best job of protecting, I suggest. The current baroque building was completed in 1715. One day I will write a blog post on the beautiful organs of European churches.

Old Town Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

The city was a primary location for shooting the ‘Game of Thrones’ TV series. Among the dozens of souvenir shops are a few that claim to be ‘official’ Game of Thrones purveyors…whatever that means.

Franciscan Friary and Church, Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 November 2025)

Not many structures survived the quake of 1667. It was good that all the churches were open during the day. Our guide said if we are caught in the rain, they are an easy refuge.

Although we were there a second day and it was bright and sunny, I chose to join a special side trip to the Ston salt pans and an oyster cultivation experience. Beck opted to return to climb the walls around the old quarter, but I couldn’t resist communing with my invertebrate friends.

Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Korčula

The postings so far this year have been pretty meager. I hope to return to graves, stories and rants before too long. Until then, the travel stories continue.

Sunday Morning in Korčula (2 November 2025)

We sailed away from Split and the next day, we were on the island of Korčula, pronounced “Kor-chu-la.” Its claim to fame is that it’s said to be the birthplace of Marco Polo. Off the Dalmatian coast, the island covers 108 square miles and has over 15,000 inhabitants. That makes it the most populated Adriatic island NOT connected to the mainland by a bridge.

It was Sunday morning and our walkabout was delightfully quiet. All the businesses were closed and there were no other tour groups in sight. We had the streets and narrow alleys to ourselves.

Old Town Gate, Korčula, Croatia (2 November 2025)

The Croatian flag flies above the passage into the old quarter.

Korčula is often described as a ‘Little Dubrovnik’ because of its well-preserved walls and Gothic architecture. The tidy island has a fine dining and wine rep…without the crowds…so far. It’s unique white wine, called ‘Grk,’ can only be experienced here since the authorities have determined that not enough is produced to allow its export.

St. Mark’s Church, Korčula, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Over 80% of Croatians are Catholic, so there are many dioceses and cathedrals. St. Mark’s in Korčula used to be one. The modest Romanesque church dates to the 15th century, and earlier churches occupied the site. It was a cathedral until 1828 when Dubrovnik officially subsumed the honor, and that city’s bigger church became a cathedral.

 

Altar with Tintoretto Painting

St. Mark’s Church, Korčula, Croatia (2 November 2025)

The little church’s claim to fame is the Tintoretto 1550 painting

of St. Mark with two other saints, Bartholomew and Jerome.

Virgin and Child With Saints [1431] by Blaž Jurjev

Bishop’s Treasury Museum, Korčula, Croatia (2 November 2025)

Next to the church is the Bishop’s Treasury Museum. It is a tidy little place, up a creaking stairway, filled with centuries-old vestments, coins, art and sculpture. I took only a few shots inside, but liked the look of this polyptych. Turns out it is one of the most prominent items in the collection.

View of the Mainland from Korčula (2 November 2025)

I can see why Korčula might be an attractive destination. The beaches and other waterfront attractions on one side of the island have a fine view of the mountains across the narrow Strait of Pelješac.

Off we go to the next stop, the special city of Dubrovnik.

Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Split, Croatia

From Zadar we sailed to Split, the second largest city in Croatia…again at night. I guess they just believe it’s November and we’d all prefer to be in the next place rather than sit on the sun deck and watch the world go by. I won’t complain since this is not a river cruise.

Approaching Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

However, the coast can be interesting. Here, we approach the ancient city that was built against dramatic highlands.

 

M/V Athena (1 November 2025)

This is our boat. A cozy 48 passengers. Our room is halfway along the middle deck, which is a good place to be if the water is rough since the middle heaves and rocks less than the ends of the ship. Fortunately, there were no days during this coastal excursion where our tolerance was tested.

Diocletian’s Palace, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

The main attraction in the city of Split, Croatia is the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian. He was born in this region and ascended to the top job by rising through the military ranks. He is known for running the largest, bloodiest persecution of Christians (305-312) and being the first emperor to abdicate/retire.

Inside Diocletian’s Compound, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Covering almost eight acres, half the compound was for the personal use of the retired emperor, and the other half was a military garrison. Today, the complex has many hotels, apartments, cafes, and 3000 residents. The area includes a cathedral and other Christian chapels. This building’s corner decoration features St. Anthony with a clock tower behind.

Through the Bronze Gate, Diocletian’s Palace, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Because the site is considered the finest remining example of a Roman palace, UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in 1979. The South or Bronze Gate is one of four main portals through the fortress walls. It is now the main entance for visitors, though at one time, it opened to docks on the waterfront.

 

Cathedral of St. Dominus, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Because the church itself occupies Diocletian’s mausoleum which dates to the year 305, it is considered the oldest Catholic cathedral still in its original structure. The Romanesque bell tower dates to the 12th century and is dedicated to St. Dominus, who was beheaded during one of Diocletian’s Christian purges.

 

View From Marjan Hill, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Later, we trudged up Marjan Hill for this view of the city and harbor. The palace is in the middle foreground with the tall tower of St. Domnius Cathedral prominent in the compound.

Jewish Cemetery, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

In the 1500’s, Sephardic Jews escaping the inquisitions in Spain and Portugal, established a synagogue next to Diocletian’s Palace. At the time, a cemetery was also created on Marjan Hill. Italian and Croatian fascists helped obliterate the community during WW II. Only about one hundred active Jews reside in Split today.

 

Grgur Ninski [1929] by Ivan Mestrovic,

Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Gregory of Nin was a bishop who strongly opposed the pope and introduced the Catholic services in Croatian instead of Latin. While it strengthened the faith among the people, it angered the pope and Gregory was demoted and relocated in 928. A thousand years later, this statue was dedicated, and ever since, locals rub the bishop’s toe for luck.

Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Zadar, Croatia

Now it’s Thursday, 30 October and we’re finally packed up and on a bus headed toward the port where we will board our ship. On the way, we stop at one of Croatia’s great national parks. Plitvice Lakes National Park is a unique environment where limestone and dolomite geology has created a chain of lakes that cascade into one another.

Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia (30 October 2025)

It is the nation’s oldest and largest national park. There are two trails that get you through the area. I took the shorter upper trail because I don’t trust my old legs. Also, the trail rose above the waters and allowed for more panoramic views of the fascinating features.

 

Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia (30 October 2025)

The cascades are impressive. One shot I will not show is another sign of the Apocalypse. When I zoomed in on a trail below, there were two young people right next to waterfalls and crystal waters and exotic vegetation…looking at their phones.

Zadar Waterfront (31 October 2025)

By the end of the day, we were in Zadar, an ancient port city known to the Greeks and Romans.

Finally, on the eighth day of the trip, we are on the boat. After unpacking in our cabin, we walked around the waterfront. The sea wall and promenade made for an attractive stroll. The following morning, we continued to walk through the ancient quarter.

Roman Forum, Zadar, Croatia (31 October 2025)

The old quarter of Zadar is really old and has more ancient churches that would seem necessary…but that’s old Christians for you. Here among the Roman ruins is the bell tower of St. Anastasia Cathedral next to the round Church of St. Donatus.

St. Donatus Church (31 October 2025)

St. Donatus is a pre-Romanesque design that dates to the 9th century. It was constructed with materials taken from the nearby Roman forum. The inside is captivating when you think of what has transpired there over twelve centuries. As a current music venue, the acoustics are said to be excellent.

St. Chrysogonas Church (31 October 2025)

St. Chrysogonas is the patron saint of Zadar. He was martyred during Emperor Diocletian’s rampage against Christians around 310. This classic Romanesque church is named after him.

‘My Little Violet,’ Zadar, Croatia (31 October 2025)

As you might imagine, you can find some spectacular yachts in this part of the world. Docked here in Zadar is the ‘My Little Violet.’ You can look it up. A modest 150 feet long, it accommodates ten guests in five suites…so you and four other couples can split the 200,000 Euros/week rental charge.

We’re finally at sea and future Cruise Chronicles can live up to its name.

Adriatic Cruise Chronicle – Varazdin, Croatia

Town Square, Varazdin, Croatia (29 October 2025)

Today, we were taken to the charming baroque city of Varazdin. Compared to Vienna back in the day, the city was an important center during the reign of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. That is, until a fire in 1776 destroyed 80% of the city. After that, the power center moved to Zagreb, but the baroque charm remains. Above are the town hall and main square lined with cafes.

Stari Grad, Varazdin, Croatia (29 October 2025)

The centerpiece of the town is ‘Stari Grad.’ The fortress dates to the 12th century and was the seat of power for whoever conquered the area. Now a museum, it is the main attraction of the town but is also closed for renovation. I’m glad this country is doing what it can to restore historic properties…just sorry I couldn’t see them on this visit.

Inside the Entomology Museum, Varazdin, Croatia (29 October 2025)

Look at what else do we found here for the bug guy - the Museum of Entomology. This tidy little attraction houses the collected life work of a local scientist presented in an appealing way.

Look Down, Varazdin, Croatia (29 October 2025)

I must admit the town does have exquisite manhole covers.

Varazdin, Croatia (29 October 2025)

All over Europe, couples have declared their love by placing a lock on public fences and bridge railings. Varazdin either lacks similar places or has the good sense to create an appealing alternative in keeping with its baroque styles. Our local tour guide, dressed in period costume, added to the authenticity of our visit.

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary,

Varazdin, Croatia (29 October 2025)

We ducked into a modest church for a moment. The altar area is a fine representation of baroque excess with angels on top of statues on top of paintings on top of gold accents. When Pope John Paul II declared Varazdin a diocese in 1997, the church became a cathedral.

Tomorrow, we (finally) get to the coast and board the small ship that was the reason we booked this deal in the first place.

Thoughts on Our First Ladies

We take another break from travel stories to recognize Women’s History Month.

Long-time followers of this space will recall that my first photo pursuit was the Dead Presidents Quest. Like the vice presidents who are largely ignored during their service and in history, the wives of our presidents have often received little appreciation when many of them deserved accolades.

   

National Museum of American History (29 March 2023)

Among the museum gems just down the road in D.C. is the Smithsonian National Museum of American History. One of the most popular exhibits there is about the wives of the American presidents. By far, the main attraction of the exhibit is the collection of dresses the women wore at their husbands’ inaugural balls. On the wall opposite the gowns are place settings of the china patterns used while each family occupied the White House.

    

First Ladies’ Inauguration Gowns

National Museum of American History (29 March 2023)

First Ladies were not unimportant. I believe they were much more than escorts, hostesses and mothers to the children. Many were women of substance who did far more than they were given credit for. We tend to forget that the First Ladies were the first people the presidents spoke to in the morning and the last they were with at night. Especially after his life was popularized by the David McCullough book and TV miniseries, we knew that Abigail Adams was a critical influence and moderating presence on her husband John’s prickly nature.

Many presidential graves give equal space to their wives. The Adams’s, Grant and Hoover plots are prime examples. However, there are a few that give what I consider short shrift to their spouses. There are grave sites that seem to say, “Oh by the way, in addition to the Great Man, those other, smaller markers are for the little woman.”

To be fair, maybe it’s a second wife issue. Lifelong partners are one thing, but when the president is widowed and remarries after he has served, I should cut them some slack. Take Number 23, Benjamin Harrison. His poor wife, Caroline, died two weeks before the re-election that her husband lost. A well-educated woman, the artist and music teacher preferred to work with charities rather than serve as the White House hostess. She has a small headstone to one side of her husband while Wife # 2 has an equal-sized marker on the other side of him. At least the larger monument devotes equal space for their names, calling Caroline ‘beloved’ and Mary ‘devoted.’
   

Graves of Benjamin, Caroline and Mary Harrison,

Crown Hill Cemetery, Indianapolis, Indiana (21 October 2006)

It’s not just about equal billing in the internment space. I believe more should be told about some of the women who contributed materially to the success of their mates. So, I intend to use the considerable world-wide exposure of the Images and More platform to do just that.
   

Grave of Abigail Powers Fillmore,

Forest Lawn Cemetery, Buffalo, New York (21 May 2008)

The modest stone marker of the First Lady occupies a corner

within the fenced space that features a tall obelisk above the

grave of the thirteenth president and his second wife.

As a teenager, Millard Fillmore was a dirt-poor indentured apprentice with hardly any education. Abigail Powers, two years older, was his first teacher. She may have been the first presidential wife with a paying job, and she established the first White House library. Sadly, she caught pneumonia after attending the inauguration of Fillmore’s successor and died before returning to Buffalo.

Next Women’s History Month, I will share more stories about our presidents’ wives.
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PS -
This platform was established with my Dead Presidents Quest. Many of the stories of our Chief Executives were enlivened by the critical contributions of the First Ladies. A terrific source of information was the White House web site, where each First Lady had a page. I say ‘had’ because, in its infinite wisdom, Dear Leader’s team of MAGA sycophants has decided to eliminate all references to prior First Ladies. All you get is Melania. Type into the search bar “Historic First Ladies” or “First Ladies before Melania” and all you get is Melania.

Effing Despicable.

I understand that next month is Math Awareness Month…don’t expect any related post from me.

Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Zagreb, Croatia

Back to the Cruise Chronicles. No sign of a boat yet. We took the train from Ljubljana and two hours later, we’re in another country to link up with the OAT (Overseas Adventure Travel) tour group. Our walkabouts in the central city revealed much of the country’s difficult recent history.

The region expects earthquakes every 120 years or so. There was a serious one in 1880. Then there were the two world wars and the civil war in the 1990’s. The next trembler happened just as Covid hit in 2020. On top of that, when Croatia joined the European Union in 2013, many talented locals moved to countries with better wages, etc. This explains why so many buildings have been under scaffolding for years.

Zagreb Cathedral (27 October 2025)

Zagreb Cathedral. Its soaring towers under scaffolding, the cathedral has been under repair since 2020 and is not yet open to the public. This current, neo-Gothic structure largely replaced the former, centuries-old cathedral that was severely damaged by the 1880 quake.

Open Air Market, Zagreb, Croatia (28 October 2025)

In big cities and small towns, much of the marketing is done in plazas where vendors sell everything from flowers to produce to baby clothes and toilet brushes.

Bust of Giulio Clovio,

Zrinjevac Park, Zagreb, Croatia (27 October 2025)

A few blocks from our hotel we discovered the charming Zrinjevac Park, a long narrow row of city blocks with big trees, fountains and busts of eminent Croatians. I like the way this shot came out so I had to learn who this guy was. Giulio Clovic was born in Croatia but trained and thrived in Italy as an illuminator, a designer and one who illustrates manuscripts…thus illuminating the writing. Always good to learn something new.

Ban and His Budgie

Zagreb, Croatia (28 October 2025)

“Now, Budgie, please fly home. I have a battle to fight

here and I can’t if you’re perched on my saber hand.”

Ban Jelacic Square is the heart of central Zagreb. There you will find a statue of the 19th-century leader. ‘Ban’ is the title of local rulers, and he is remembered for his military victories during the revolutions in 1848 and for eliminating serfdom in the country. Pigeons do have a way of sometimes making heroic statues look silly.

On this afternoon, OAT offered a little side trip that appealed to this grave hunter. Mirogoj Cemetery is the largest, most important burial ground in Zagreb.

Mirogoj Cemetery, Zagreb, Croatia (28 October 2025)

The cemetery was founded in the 1870’s. Due to funding shortfalls, the walls and copulas were constructed in fits and starts into the 1920’s. Damage from the 2020 earthquake is still evident.

Mirogoj Cemetery, Zagreb, Croatia (28 October 2025)

Many notable Croats are buried in the arcades of Mirogoj. The cemetery is city-owned and significant in that it inters people of all faiths.

Mirogoj Cemetery, Zagreb, Croatia (28 October 2025)

With All Saints Day around the corner, there was much activity sprucing up the graves with fresh flowers and candles.

Our full day in Zagreb ended with a group dinner at a local restaurant. We were served traditional dishes of pork, potatoes and cabbage-wrapped ground meat. Our tour group traveled by one of the many trams that traverse the city. I don’t know if Croatian youth are naturally more polite or if I just look old and needy but I was offered a seat twice.

Next stop – not on the boat yet.