Places - Charleston, South Carolina – 1 - Introduction

I can think of no other city on the eastern seaboard that has preserved as much of its historical neighborhoods and architecture like Charleston has. I find it utterly charming. “Like New Orleans, only cleaner” has been the way I describe it.

Waterfront Park, Charleston (9 March 2014)

The first time I was there was twenty years ago. It was a business trip and I enjoyed the few minutes of free time that allowed me to see the old quarters. I always wanted to get back there with Beck...even gave her a “Good-fer” one Christmas to get there for her birthday. Finally followed through ten years later. Folks – don’t give your loved ones ‘Good-fers’. The thought may be commendable but actual tickets are better.

Founded in 1670, a mere twenty years later, it was the 5th largest city in North America. Because of the region’s plantations relied so much on slave labor, the city was the premier slave-trading center on the east coast. From the start of the 1700’s to the Northern Migration of the mid-20th century, blacks outnumbered whites in the state.

Charleston Carriage Tour (9 March 2014)

Charleston has been in the news lately…and I did say I would introduce state house portraits when the states made the news. It’s a damn shame the criterion of being in the news usually means something bad has happened. ‘Something bad’ is an understatement when describing the event that put Charleston on the front pages. The capitol in Columbia has also been in the news and that beautiful state house will be shown soon.

Graveyard, St. Philip’s Episcopal Church (10 March 2014)

Call me morbid but I do enjoy wandering through old burial grounds...especially if they contain some notable residents. The large vault in the background holds our 7th Vice President and giant of South Carolina history, John C. Calhoun.

Grave of Charles Pinckney, St. Philip’s Church, 
Charleston (10 March 2014)

I did not know of the murdered pastor and state senator when I was in Charleston. However, I was aware of the prominence of the colonial Pinckney’s. Pinckney Street is five blocks from the Emanuel AME Church. They were soldiers and statesmen instrumental in the writing of our nation’s Constitution…and slave-holders. I imagine the pastor was descended from the slaves who assumed their owner’s name.

The Bowels of Fort Sumter (11 March 2014)

It felt important to visit the place where the War Between the States started. April 12, 1861 began the shooting war, which was four months after the state seceded, which was seven years after Bloody Kansas started and decades after the nation began bickering over expanding slavery into the frontier. The ‘heritage’ supporters of the battle flag say the war was about state’s rights and not slavery. I believe they were barely half right. It was about the state’s right to have slaves.

I really like visiting Charleston. It is eminently walkable and spring time is delightful there when the north is fed up with winter. The low country cuisine is spectacular and the history is fascinating.

Stay tuned for Part 2.