Adriatic Cruise Chronicles – Split, Croatia

From Zadar we sailed to Split, the second largest city in Croatia…again at night. I guess they just believe it’s November and we’d all prefer to be in the next place rather than sit on the sun deck and watch the world go by. I won’t complain since this is not a river cruise.

Approaching Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

However, the coast can be interesting. Here, we approach the ancient city that was built against dramatic highlands.

 

M/V Athena (1 November 2025)

This is our boat. A cozy 48 passengers. Our room is halfway along the middle deck, which is a good place to be if the water is rough since the middle heaves and rocks less than the ends of the ship. Fortunately, there were no days during this coastal excursion where our tolerance was tested.

Diocletian’s Palace, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

The main attraction in the city of Split, Croatia is the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian. He was born in this region and ascended to the top job by rising through the military ranks. He is known for running the largest, bloodiest persecution of Christians (305-312) and being the first emperor to abdicate/retire.

Inside Diocletian’s Compound, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Covering almost eight acres, half the compound was for the personal use of the retired emperor, and the other half was a military garrison. Today, the complex has many hotels, apartments, cafes, and 3000 residents. The area includes a cathedral and other Christian chapels. This building’s corner decoration features St. Anthony with a clock tower behind.

Through the Bronze Gate, Diocletian’s Palace, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Because the site is considered the finest remining example of a Roman palace, UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in 1979. The South or Bronze Gate is one of four main portals through the fortress walls. It is now the main entance for visitors, though at one time, it opened to docks on the waterfront.

 

Cathedral of St. Dominus, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Because the church itself occupies Diocletian’s mausoleum which dates to the year 305, it is considered the oldest Catholic cathedral still in its original structure. The Romanesque bell tower dates to the 12th century and is dedicated to St. Dominus, who was beheaded during one of Diocletian’s Christian purges.

 

View From Marjan Hill, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Later, we trudged up Marjan Hill for this view of the city and harbor. The palace is in the middle foreground with the tall tower of St. Domnius Cathedral prominent in the compound.

Jewish Cemetery, Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

In the 1500’s, Sephardic Jews escaping the inquisitions in Spain and Portugal, established a synagogue next to Diocletian’s Palace. At the time, a cemetery was also created on Marjan Hill. Italian and Croatian fascists helped obliterate the community during WW II. Only about one hundred active Jews reside in Split today.

 

Grgur Ninski [1929] by Ivan Mestrovic,

Split, Croatia (1 November 2025)

Gregory of Nin was a bishop who strongly opposed the pope and introduced the Catholic services in Croatian instead of Latin. While it strengthened the faith among the people, it angered the pope and Gregory was demoted and relocated in 928. A thousand years later, this statue was dedicated, and ever since, locals rub the bishop’s toe for luck.