River Cruise Diary – Antwerp, Belgium

Last port of call is Antwerp, Belgium…a major seaport and the world’s premier diamond center. Our morning walking tour noted the wealth and power the city had in the 1600’s when Dutch merchants brought exotic treasures back from other continents.

I would think every first-time visitor to Antwerp goes to the Great Market Square with its classic guild halls on one side and the fine old City Hall on the other. During peak season, I suspect the square is full of restaurant diners, merchants and tourists. Not so on this cool Wednesday morning.

Brabo Fountain [1887], Antwerp (20 November 2019) 

The Brabo Fountain depicts the myth that some say led to the naming of the city. Legend has it that a mean old giant controlled the harbor and any ship captain who failed to pay the toll would have his hand cut off and flung into the Schelde River. Along comes brave Roman captain Brabo. How he defeats the giant is not described, but the end result is Brabo throwing the giant’s hand away. Some suggest the city’s name is derived from the old Dutch words for ‘hand-launch.’

Completed in 1565, the City Hall reflected the prosperity of the area at the time. Originally conceived as a Gothic design, the final structure incorporated Italian and Renaissance features. However, what you see behind the fountain here is a ‘print,’ if you will, of the entire building. Unlike what we might expect here in our ‘Exceptional’ country, where a building under major renovation is covered in scaffolding, plastic sheeting and tarps, all that is behind a full-scale presentation of the restored façade. Classy. A photo of the uncovered building is here.

Medieval Door Lock Plate, Antwerp, Belgium (20 November 2019) 

Our guide, Amin, knew what would appeal to us on this chilly morning and he made sure we sampled some Belgian chocolates and fried potatoes (they don’t call them ‘French’ fries here). Along the way, he pointed out this ancient door to an alley dwelling. We were told the design is intended to guide one’s key down to the lock hole because so often the occupant was drunk and needed the help. The scratched, worn metal here seems to indicate the guide was used often. It occurred to me later that maybe the guide was also necessary just because it is very dark at night.

Central Rail Station, Antwerp, Belgium (20 November 2019) 

Antwerp’s Central Rail Station is considered one of the finest terminals in the world. Completed in 1905, its entrance hall can compare with any classical building of that time. Between 2000 and 2009, the station was completely renovated and modernized to accommodate the high-speed rail service that Europeans prioritize.

Statue of Peter Paul Rubens and the 

Cathedral of Our Lady, Antwerp (20 November 2019) 

Begun in 1352 and completed in 1521, the Cathedral of Our Lady is the largest church in Belgium. It has survived fires, religious wars and plundering by French revolutionaries. Today it is renown because it also houses masterpieces by Antwerp resident and Belgian national hero, Peter Paul Rubens.

Cathedral of Our Lady, Antwerp, Belgium (20 November 2019) 

From 1965 to 2015, the cathedral underwent extensive restorations. One can see magnificent stained glass and wood carved alter pieces and choir stalls (too dark here to appreciate). 

 

The Raising of the Cross by Peter Paul Rubens 

Cathedral of Our Lady, Antwerp, Belgium (20 November 2019) 

Rubens is known for his huge, heroic paintings and the cathedral has three of them. This triptych, completed in 1611, measures eleven by fifteen feet. Napoleon appropriated two of the paintings to France for a few years when he was the big bully in Europe but they were returned to Antwerp in 1815.

A Cabin with a View (20 November 2019) 

The closer one gets to the sea, the more the tides are evident. Sometimes our cabin faced the river. Other times, we were on the side tied to the berth. When the tide is low, there is not much to see. This created challenges for the crew regarding which deck they needed to attach the gang plank for our comings and goings.

Antwerp marked the end of our touring. The evening entailed one last fine dinner followed by packing and squaring accounts…signing for drinks was easy for two weeks but the bills come due eventually. It is important to bring along extra cash for gratuities for cabin attendants, wait staff and our excellent tour guide…all top-notch pros. The next morning, we were bussed to Brussels for the flight home.

If this blogging adventure continues and all the state capitols, grave sites, ballparks and rants are exhausted, I just might revisit the images and impressions from other river cruises.