State Capitols – Des Moines, Iowa - Outside

Iowa Capitol in Des Moines (25 June 2017)

Constructed: 1871-1886

Architect: Alfred H. Piquenard

State Admitted to Union: December 28, 1846 (29th)

State Population (2019): 3,155,070 (31st)

Remember my State House Odyssey? That photo quest was introduced in 2011 and re-introduced in 2015 after a two-year absence of capitol posts. I got a few more up after that but other topics seemed to take over and 2017-19 added only three more to the posted fold. To date, fifteen state house stories have been told. I’ve visited 48 so there are many left to present. Since we have been hearing about the Iowa Caucuses for over a year now, let’s go there next.

We’re in the primary season of an important presidential election year (Aren’t they all?) and maybe I can post a few more stories about our beautiful state capitol buildings as their elections approach. The first-in-the-nation vote will happen in Iowa on February 3, 2020 after which we can move on to more important elections. No offense to the fine citizens of the Hawkeye State, but entirely too much attention is spent on your overwhelmingly white, rural part of the nation…and it’s only gotten worse since candidates and the media have decided to focus on the next general election so soon after the last one. But, as with everything else in our great land, it’s about the money and every four years, cash just rains down on Iowa. The biggest industry after corn is hosting political campaigns. But I digress.

Originally part of French Louisiana, the territory was acquired in the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 and became a state in 1846. Given its remoteness in the early days, Iowa was part of the Michigan, then Wisconsin territories and spun off when the more settled areas became states. Once the Iowa Territory was officially open for settlement in 1833, things became more, dare I say, settled. As with many states, its name is derived from the original inhabitant Ioway tribe. To show their gratitude, the setters removed the Native Americans to reservations in other territories in 1837.

In Case Des Moines Attacks, Iowa Capitol (25 June 2017)

As perfect a location as any state house, the capitol sits on a gentle hill overlooking downtown Des Moines. One of many remembrances of the Civil War on the grounds, this 22,000-pound, 13-inch mortar was cast in 1861, used in a number of notable engagements and donated to Iowa by an act of Congress in 1895. Sadly, I also have a picture taken from the front end that shows it has become a convenient trash receptacle.

Iowa Capitol, Des Moines (25 June 2017)

Unfortunately, the visit coincided with some significant repair work.

Another addition to my growing collection of 

‘Landmarks Under Scaffolding’

The territorial capital was in Burlington on the Mississippi River. In the first ten years of statehood, the capitol moved west to Iowa City, but still in the eastern part of the state. The old stone capitol still stands and is now the centerpiece of the University of Iowa campus. Ultimately, the desire for a centrally-located capital prompted the selection of Des Moines. The state’s largest city has been the seat of government since 1857.

Completed in 1886, the current capital building is the second state house on this site and is the only state capitol with five domes. The current structure was built to house the two legislative chambers, the state supreme court and the offices of the governor and other state executive officers. Not all the materials and furnishings are original since a fire in 1904 heavily damaged much of the building.

Iowa Soldiers and Sailors Monument,

Iowa Capitol Grounds, Des Moines (25 June 2017)

What they call “The Old Brick Capitol” was the first state house on the property. It was saved but burned down in 1892. The Iowa Soldiers and Sailors Monument was erected in its place. Completed in 1897, the 135-foot tall Civil War commemorative is as impressive as any version found in the former Confederacy.

Of all the states on both sides of the war, it was Iowa that contributed the greatest percentage of its population to the fight. What I like about this monument is the no-nonsense inscription. There is less of that flowery verbiage to valor, chivalry and manhood than we find on the monuments in the South. The conflict from 1861 to 1865 is forthrightly called ‘The War of the Rebellion.’

Pioneer Statue, Iowa Capitol, Des Moines (25 June 2017)

So many capitol grounds in the west have tributes to the stalwart settlers who braved the elements and the hostiles to fulfill our Manifest Destiny. The official guidance for this project in 1890 called for the work to depict “…a father and son guided by a friendly Indian in search of a home.” Aside from the ironically-misplaced modifier, I think the Noble Savage would appear better standing and striking a guiding pose rather than looking like he’s been knocked on his ass. But that’s me.

Monument to William Boyd Allison,

Iowa Capitol Grounds, Des Moines (26 June 2017)

The Iowa Capitol Grounds is awash in memorials, commemoratives and remembrances. Monuments to every war, many service organizations, events and individuals are spread over the 10-acre property. The heroic monument above is dedicated to a six-term U.S. Senator who was a major force in Republican politics at the turn of the 20th century.

We went to Minnesota for my nephew’s wedding and stayed a few extra days to make a short run due south to Des Moines and Lincoln, Nebraska to the west. There are certainly more dramatic areas of the country to drive through, but the midwestern plains (on the right day) can make for a most pleasant road trip.

From ‘Pearls Before Swine’ by Steven Pastis