Italy – Day 4 – More of Milan

The long day in Florence ended even later than expected. It was Sunday and close to midnight and not all city services were running. Duh. This fact only sank in after we took the first of the two subway lines from Central Station to our hotel…which sits at the end of the Purple Line…and was closed for the night. We went above ground and after some interesting encounters finally flagged a cab that got us “home.”

We didn’t get to bed until after 2 AM and stayed there until noon. Today became a shorter day of touring to find some of the lesser known sights in Milan.

Exterior, Santa Maria presso San Satiro,

Milan (19 February 2018)

Completed in 1482, the church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro is this oddly-shaped chapel closely surrounded by modern high-rise buildings. Apparently, the lot was similarly confined 500+ years ago and they had to build accordingly. Offsetting these restrictions, the architect, encouraged to ‘enlarge the space’, produced one of the earliest and best examples of trompe l’oeil. Called ‘forced perspective’ in architecture, the design is an optical illusion that conveys greater (or lesser) depth than actually is.

Interior, Santa Maria presso San Satiro, Milan (19 February 2018)

The deep-looking space behind the altar actually measures about three feet. The illusion is fascinating. More examples of trompe l’oeil can be seen at the link highlighted above.

A few blocks from the Duomo is San Bernardino alle Ossa. As the name implies, the place has something to do with bones…like you can’t imagine. The church was adjacent to a hospital and cemetery and when the cemetery ran out of space in 1210, the church built a special chapel and incorporated skulls and bones into the décor.

San Bernardino alle Osso, Milan (19 February 2018)

A place or object that collects skeletal remains is called an ossuary. A chest or a room or the Catacombs of Paris (which contain the remains of six million people) are ossuaries. I don’t know. I guess in those days, graves were not the venerated last resting places we think they are today. On the other hand, knowing that Uncle Guido is part of this monumental decoration in a holy chapel might bring some solace.

San Bernardino alle Osso, Milan (19 February 2018)

The day wound down. We passed the Duomo one last time on the way to the subway and our hotel. Smaller crowds made it easier to pause and appreciate the exquisite doors of the cathedral.

Detail, Central Door of the Milan Duomo (19 February 2008)

Executed in the late 19th century, the doors are the work of the Milanese artist, Lodovico Pogliaghi, a noted painter, sculptor and decorator.

Tomorrow, we leave for the States in the afternoon and Beck made one last reservation to see a Milan classic in the morning…or thought she did. When we were here in 1999, we were unable to see Leonardo’s classic ‘Last Supper’ fresco because the church was closed for the ubiquitous pre-Millennium renovation. Another word to the wise. When reserving tickets on line, pay attention to the possibility that you might be required to scroll further down on the page and click that final ‘accept’ button. She missed that command and we were shut out of that very popular attraction…again.

Day 5 will be a ‘Plan B’ affair.